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Very cool and nice to see an update design.
Is it me or is that dried out blue dye next to that solder point you believe is corrosive?
Quoted from "Megalamaniac" You need to connect the MPS200 to USB so that you can configure it and set the aquabus address via aquasuite. Once you have done this you only need to connect the aquabus with 4 pin cable. You can use Y cables to connect more devices to the aquabus. If you leave the USB cable connected with the aquabus connected, then you can use a 3 pin cable for the aquabus connection. Remove the USB and you need the 4 pin connector, and only the 4 pin cable The device needs to be p...
Quoted from "Stephan" A maintainence section is a good idea - maybe we will add something like this. For qualtiy control of your coolant we will have something new in a few weeks Fantastic. Sounds like a plan.
I'm asking Aquacomputer if it's possible to add a reminder system in place so when it's time to flush the Ultra coolant annually, would be really great and appreciated as well as maybe a checklist of things but having a builtin reminder to drain/refill/maintenance a system annually would be amazing since I keep forgetting roughly when I did it last. Much appreciated.
I'm in a bit of a hurry but for future reference, use a water temp probe and setup alarms to shutdown the PC like I have if the water temp exceeds a certain amount so it doesn't compromise the tubing and boy are you lucky that it didn't leak. Must've had them on there tight. I think the average max water temp on these tubings is somewhere around 60-65c before they become compromised iirc.
Quoted from "InfoSeeker" Quoted from "realmmoto" I was looking at that, but these pumps only have the power Molex (12VDC x 2 = 24VDC) how the Aquaero 6 LT would connect to the pumps? I may get flamed for suggesting this, but if you have the pumps and want to use them, this is an option: remove the 4-pin molex plugs from the pump's power leadreplace with a fan style plug (3 or 4 pin), connecting to the +12V & ground pinsplug each of the two pumps into it's own fan port on the aquaero 6set the va...
Quoted from "realmmoto" The pumps are Swiftech MCP655. Link: https://www.newegg.com/swiftech-mcp655-1…N82E16835108082 I have attached a manual PDF of the pumps. As stated, you control the pump via a red nob in its rear. Should have a range from 1 to 5 with 5 being full power. While those pumps are great, they are some of the older D5s with the knobs. Still work but I prefer a PWM D5 so I can control it through the AQ6 via Aquasuite.
Specify which exact D5 pump you're referring to. Give us the type it is or a link/image.
Quoted from "realmmoto" Hello everyone, I am new to the AquaComputer system. I have been building custom pc for a while. I have an EK dual D5 pump housing that I would like to control with the Aquasuite software. I would like to know if 2 none PWM pumps can be controlled and if so, what will I need to do just that? I currently have a cuplex kryos NEXT with VISION AM4 WB, & AquaSuite that it. Thank you for your cooperation An Aquaero 6 LT/PRO/XT can do that for you since the fan channels can con...
Quoted from "Bartdude" Quoted from "Stephan" Running a loop at lower flow rate will never increase the performance. You will have higher differential temperatures cold/warm but the average temperature will increase. There has been a lot of testing of various water cooling elements in the past, most done HERE I suggest taking a look, testing showed the best flow was between 1-1.5gpm after which you get diminishing returns so most water cooling enthusiasts try to obtain somewhere in that region. ...
Quoted from "cristian.ticu" If not appropriate,please delete. As the title says, I'm looking for a wb for the GTX295, aquacomputer only of course. naked copper or nickel, doesn't matter. . I'm tired of eyeing ebay for months,maybe someone here has one for sale. feel free to post here,or send DM's. You might be able to find old stock somewhere and if not, maybe you can get away with universal blocks. Not sure how well it will work on a dual GPU PCB but it's worth a shot to look into.
I personally think having the 240mm is best since you'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it when it comes to a heat exchanger otherwise you risk something smaller getting too heat saturated which those single small rads are known as such but if the product you're cooling is less than 100w, than I guess the 140mm should be fine. In the custom cooling PC world, we usually say 120mm per 100w-150w.
I should also add, for some it could take weeks if not months to bleedout the system. It all depends how complex the loop is. Mine takes at least a month.
Quoted from "mattlach" In my experience with mine, and others that I have read, this is pretty typical during and right after initial fill. Within a few days of running, usually all air works its way out of the system, and it quiets down. At least I think that is what is happening. That's correct.
I guess I'll just wait for the X.16 update notification to show up.
Quoted from "ManniX" I've just updated to X.15 and it went smooth. No CPU hogging issue like last X.14 upgrade. That's good news. I'm currently seeing only a X.14 notification.
If this thing came in dual D5s in serial with reservoir(s), I'd be maybe interested hoping they have simliar installatio, to my current dual EK G2 setup since it covers a single120mm fan spot and easy to install/hang.
Quoted from "eisbehr" We should build a fan database for aquacomputer compatibility on pwm and argb. That would be a great idea.
Quoted from "InfoSeeker" The fan ports and sensors should come across the aquabus, I am not sure about the RGBpx port. The two USB 2.0 ports you have on the motherboard, are they both nine-pin ports? If so, that is four individual ports... you can connect two of the five pin cables from aquacomputer devices to each one of the nine-pin ports. +1
There should be a EU or green energy feature that shuts off 5V completely when the system turns off. Should be in your BIOS. I had an issue where my AQ6's display would still be on but once I enabled EU standards in my BIOS, nothing is powered on anymore.
Glad you got it working again. My apologies since your original statement made me think the pump was run dry.
Quoted from "xOperator" Im in the process of building my new system and I cant fill my loop with fluid. I have ONLY the D5 Next plugged into a PSU with the SATA connector. When I turn on the PSU, i get a "12V out of range" and a "Pump speed to low" alarm. When I check the menu options by using the buttons, I can see the water temperature. I also changed the minimum pump power from 0% all the way to 70% and no change. I also connected the usb to the motherboard and all other power connections to...
Quoted from "apistodave" ok SO THIS IS CHANNEL 3 WHICH HAS ABOUT 8 FT OF LIGHTS--i HAVE IT ON red but the lights are blue--I'm thinking I have too long a string on this--do you concur? Maybe I'm wrong here but it could probably be because it's protecting itself if you haven't damaged it yet. Read this below taken from the site. Quoted Comaptible LED strips: LED strips for 12 V, common anode. Suitable LED strips and connectors are available from Aqua Computer. Maximum current per channel: 2,5 A ...
Careful with the amount of lights used on each channel and in total on the Farbwerk unit.
Quoted from "Bartdude" Most people set there pumps to one speed and leave it, setting them up on a fan curve can have them ramping up and down. I set my 2 D5's on one fan channel, setup as a preset fan. I set my speed to give me about 230lt an hr, which is just over 1 US gallon a min. +1 I do the same.
Quoted from "sultan.of.swing" Quoted from "Elior77" Hay, I use aquacomputer products for many years and I love them, I know how complicated a profile on Aquasuite can get, I think it would be a great thing to offer pre made profile (like examples) or even a well written guide that will explain the logic, what is the target and what is the best way to achieve it - best practice, may be even a profile suggestions generator, you input all your spec and the output is recommended settings for your s...
Amazing! I might get one just because. Edit: Can you do curves and all the sensors and curves like you can with the Aquaero or is this just a 'super-sized' QUADRO? I remember hearing the QUADRO was limited to that. Also, what happens when you connect multiple fans to a single header with no lead RPM output or do you need a modified splitter cable with only one RPM wire leading back to the header from a single fan?
NZXT splitter is fine but they did have some issues with some of them. To be safe incase you get a hold of old stock, I would just get the HUBBY7. They're solid and I bought 2 of them. If I ever need more (quite possible lol), I'm going with the HUBBY7s.
Quoted from "Dundys" Alright, got it working cables on hubby where not correctly installed and jumper was set incorrectly, working great now. I will post just sneak preview of the workstation build I'm almost done, its purely on air, but..... well, I will let you be the judge, Its freakishly loaded I was just going to say to make sure your connections are installed properly as they easily can be put together incorrectly by mistake. Glad you got it working now.
Quoted from "knacker" Well, the new Aquaero 6 XT works fine but no change on the leds. I am so tempted to just use the corsair stuff for the led only and aquasuite for the rest. That's what I do because I'm not going to throw away my old Farbwerks to replace them with the newer Farbwerk 360 so my Corsair iCue controls the RGB LEDs on the fans, CPU block and RAM since they're all corsair products and the AQ6 controls the case RGB LEDs, Res RGB LED, fan speed, pumps, temp sensors, etc.
No worries Dundys and great hearing from ya.
I don't see why not and if there's ever an issue, you could self power it so the signal doesn't weaken. On mine, I've chained two HUBBY7s in close proximity of each other since I ran out of USB 2.0 headers so I powered the 2nd one, last in the chain to make sure everything gets some power and the signal stays healthy. No issues here after doing that.
Quoted from "InfoSeeker" I believe the aquaero 6 LT does not have IR capability. The IR sensor is mounted on the left side of the face-plate of the aquaero XTs & PROs That's correct. LT's don't have IR.
Interesting...So we can use these with the power coming from the PSU. About time! My only questions and concern is, if there is a PWM INPUT signal say from a PWM Channel, would the dial override the sourced PWM signal? I worry because some of us snug these hubs in tight places and in a web of wires, etc. and would hate to see the dial move ever so slightly and start changing the PWM signal while it's originally supplied from the PWM INPUT or is there a version without the dial coming out?
Big fan of the customization of the tabs. Wondering how long will we have to wait for the official release?
Just wow. That's one heck of a external system you got there. I'm guessing you use QDC's to your rig? Some pics would be nice of that as well.
Seeker, how are your rads connected to each other? Couldn't find the image that shows them connected via serial or what have you. It almost looks like each rad is individually used. Also what black noctua fans are those and is that a filter in the front? I'm going on the assumption you're using pull. Sorry for all the questions as curiosity got the best me of.
Quoted from "vixerunt" Quoted from "GTXJackBauer" Just use a HUBBY7 I did think about it, but am afraid to buy it before testing, because of ASmedia USB-hub peculiarities. Three hubs of others firms I tested worked with errors. Just use all HUBBY7s. Solid build and well worth it. I use two of them in a chain currently. No issues.
Quoted from "vixerunt" Quoted from "InfoSeeker" Personally, on aquacomputer devices that have a USB connection, I generally do not use the aquabus connection if one is also available Yes! But in my case I can not use USB because my motherboard ASUS ROG Zenith has just one USB 2.0 connector on board and doesn't allow to use USB splitters with Aquastream Ultimate. Just use a HUBBY7.
I personally use the water temp sensor plugged into the AQ via Farbwerk to control my lighting from Blue, Purplish than to Red.
Quoted from "Hufeisen" You can connect the Corsair D5 Pump to the Aquaero 6, but it is possible that you cant control the Pump with the PWM Signal. The reason is that the D5 pump PWM Signal does not comply with the Aquaero PWM Specifications. If you cant control the pump, you need to modify the Connector and add some resistors. Read this post how to do it: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water…ml#post22946282 +1
Quoted from "InfoSeeker" Something niggles in the back of my head about issues if you chain a second USB hub from a first USB hub. But since you have it ordered, Il'd say try it. What I would do is take one of the USB OUTs from the first hub and run it to the USB IN of the second hub. Then set the jumper for the primary hub to USB, and the jumper for the secondary hub to SATA, with a SATA connection. This way the second hub will not be drawing power from, and possibly overloading the motherboar...
If I jumped two HUBBY7's together, do I still need to connect both of their SATA Powers? Ran out of USB headers so I have another HUBBY7 on the way and was wondering how to go about this. Can you also have the USB selected up top on the jumper with a SATA Power connected or does it have to be jumped to SATA in order to use the SATA Power header? What if USB is selected and SATA Power is given, will that cause an issue? Also, do I chain from pinout #1 on HUBBY7 to the other HUBBY7's pinout #1?
Quoted from "eol" hello for some reason when ever i boot my pc the fans run full blast and will not follow the fan curve profile that i have set, going into aquasuite and switching fan mods resets this, but then after a reboot the problem returns Make sure you're saving the changes so it loads up what you have set.
Restart did it for me. Thanks!
This next X3 update wrecked all my settings....... Everything reset...
Quoted from "sebastian" Power down you cmputer (unplug power) wait 30 seconds and try ist again. Somtimes this happens after a firmware update. Ok, thank you Sebastian!
My Aquaero 6 XT since upgrading to the Aquasuite X went from a XT to what it now displays as a PRO. Can anyone explain why that is?
Quoted from "SimonOcean" GTXJackBauer: your the guy active on EVGA forums, right? Anyways, thanks for info. Yep, that's me.
02.12.2024, 13:22
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