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Hi, Mine has done that for the last 7+ years but what is strange is that if I power my pc from mains but don't push the power button to start it and wait a few seconds it doesn't ramp up my PWM fans. I don't have any start boost set so has always been annoying. Be interesting if someone knows a way round this.
I thought it only supports one pump?
OMG I want it now. Looks like wizardry. Excellent idea and looks the business.
Try google translate for the German pages it helps loads.
Hi Sebastian, Is this due to Brexit? If so do you know when shipping will be resumed? thanks.
Looks like serial to me - one after the other.
Never had to unplug anything to do a firmware update on the 2 pumps, flow sensor, farbwerk. Must have just been lucky.
Hi, I was definitely not poking you. Hope you get it sorted.
Orientation can be either way. Important bit is straight pipe before and after. You can even go diagonal with the new one.
Sweeping would be my choice based on my own experiences with the previous model.
Can windows see it in device manager? Have you tried a different USB connection? Can you verify that your USB connection is working with something else?
Most people use water temperature to control the fan curves. As you have coolant sensors you should use those. All the best.
Keeping a USB plugged in is always handy as the firmware updates have been quite frequent recently with the new version X of the software. I just unplug mine from the motherboard / hub and push them out of the way until required which may be an option for you.
You didn't need to buy a license as it comes with one for a new device. License key is on the box.
That is the actual flow as you don't have to calibrate a high flow sensor.
I can't give you an exact comparison but I have 20 Noctua NF12 3000 rpm industrial fans in my S8 with pedestal, 6x2 on Nexxxos Monsta radiators and 8 for air and with an Aquaero I can run them as low as 300rpm. At 750 rpm the case is still silent. At full power it sounds like a jet engine but that's just for fun. They are incredibly well made, 6 year warranty, shift huge amounts of air and look good. I've tried many different fans over the years including Gentle Typhoons and prefer these. Maybe ...
OMG I want one now!!!!!! Well done guys another outstanding design and I look forward to using them.
I've previously held the sensor and quite quickly you can see the temperature rising but again as long as you have access.
Perhaps plug them in one at a time and then make your own record?
Just updated to 2018 and loving it. No issues at all so great job.
Sorry to hear you've lost "that loving feeling" for your rig. Take a breath and maybe it will return.
If you don't need the screen go for an LT and mount it where ever you like most probably out of the way.
They look like 2 x ek d5 pumps and 2 x ddc too me.
You can by creating a software sensor through Aquasuite but the standard way is always to use water temperature as your CPU temp will dance about all over the place. You can also create a delta between water and air temps and control your loop that way which a lot of people prefer. Welcome to Aquaero land.
I realise its F/F but was wondering, as you have mentioned, if the wiring is the same.
I will preempt the next question if I may with "is it the same as a 4 pin fan extension cable"?
Quoted from "SverreMunthe" One more suggestion. For those of us crazy enough to run 2 pumps and/or push/pull fans it would be great if we could turn the voltage of a fan and a pump output up a tiny bit compared to another output. I think that in a series setup, like 2 pumps and push/pull fans, the rotation of the pull component should be a little bit higher, so as not to use force from the first component to speed up the second. This of course when using the same controller to control both comp...
Get an Aquaero Splitty as they also support Aquabus devices and look a lot better than the Phoyba ones.
Shoggy, Does that make it a usb cable problem or a controller on the pump problem? thanks
I have two AC USB D5 pumps connected via USB only that work fine except one doesn't display the correct RPM. The one that seems weird shows the RPM as about 1/10th of what it should be but the flow is fine as I have a usb high flow meter and a mark one eyeball. So when running full tilt one shows 4800 RPM and the other about 480. I haven't upgraded the software yet to any new version so still on 2016.4 Ideas?
I do understand the need to charge and intend to continue to support AC and their great products.
I have 106 days on my 6 pro. 2 d5 pumps one of which is less than a year the other along with a high flow usb bought at the same time as the 6 pro. fabrwerk lights about 6 months, Is there a particular reason you have started charging for aquasuite now?
I installed it and it said all my devices were unlicensed so I couldn't see anything
Thanks for the reply they make sense.
Well my Aquaero is handling it all very nicely so thanks for such an outstanding piece of tech
Thanks for the reply Shoggy. Never had a warning about overload. Where do I see the 90w peek? In Aquasuite the most I ever see on PWM #1 is 11.2v and 1.43 amps. I presume I'm doing the math incorrectly. I've just run them all at 100% for 10 seconds and didn't receive any errors.
Hi Shoggy, They are connected to a splitty9 ands then onto the aquaero port. Full config is: pwm1 : 12 x nidec 2150 typhoons via 2 splitty9's at 615rpm at5v and 0.36a @25c in speed controlled mode. 100% = 11.2v, 1.43a @1700 rpm. pwm2: 4 x noctua 3000 via y cables at 400 rpm at11.9v and 0.00a at 25c in PWM mode controlled mode. 100% = 11.4v, 0.70a @2700 rpm. pwm3: 6 x noctua 3000 via spliity9 at 300rpm at11.9v and 0.00a at 25c in PWM mode controlled mode.100% = 11.2v, 1.44a @2660 rpm. pwm4: 6 x n...
Hi, I've just replaced my 6 Akasa Piranha case fans with Noctua Industrial 3000's and I seem to be getting fan stutter / ticking when I start. I'm using a splitty9 and if I unplug it and then plug it back in on the aquaero it's fine. But restart and it comes back. I've tried start boost and it makes no difference. Also, is it possible to daisy chain Splitty9's? I presume as long as only one is transmitting the final rpm to the aquaero it should be fine but am struggling with this also. Many than...
Dish washer didn't touch it so have put it back in. The dye must be very strong. When I replace the dye I will get a new tube.
Thanks Shoggy I will give it a go.
Thanks for the reply Infoseeker. Mayhems to be honest replied almost straight away and followed up with a PM so not disenchanted with their response. I will email Aqua directly as per your suggestion and you are right the staining doesn't matter terribly if I use the same colour and fill level. Just strange the RX360 rads, cheap XSPC tubing and fittings and other bits and pieces are all fine. Couple of rinses with ultra pure or equivalent and its all gone and the fluid is clear. I will keep you ...
Update from Mayhems. The staining in the res is caused by the way the Aqualis works as more of an expansion tank holding the warm fluid, The best advice we could give is to contact Aquacomputer and ask them what is the best way to clean there product. Below is a link to the MSDS sheets the coolants incase they ask what coolant you were using. http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/250ml/past…_250_ml_sds.pdf http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/1ltr/paste…e_1_ltr_sds.pdf Anybody from Aqua care to advise me pleas...
Thanks for the info. I've posted there also.
Hi all, After a year the reservoir is stained by the Mayhems fluid it has been holding. Tried fairy liquid and hot water but didn't remove it. Any ideas to make it sparkly again? Thanks
Wow that page looks fantastic. I will take a look at Rainmeter.
Many thanks. I'll take a look.
14.01.2025, 21:36
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