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i think incorrect, i think 2 D5's bus to Pa2, and Pa2 bus to AQ
I think you will find it is very similar or identical to the unit used in a hig-flow flow meter. I have used my high-flow vertical mounted and horizontal (current build) with no issues. I do not hard mount it to the case as people report ticking noise from some units, I support it with soft foam.I have always avoided tight bends close to the high-flow as I assume increased turbulence will increase noiseI calibrate it to the software I am using, for its information to be meaningful.
AQ6 is available, standard 3pin fan connectors, AQ6c an handle PWM so ok if you have 4 pin PWM DDC pumps. You may want to consider either update pumps to D5 USB or grab a couple of PA2's for your pumps so all four channels on the AQ6 are available for you fans.
AQ5 has 4 channels of which one in both analogue and PWM (4 pin), it also has 2 other channels that can control PWM ie fans, lights etc. I have the water block accessory and run 6 120mm fans on 1 channel, 3 120mm fans of the second channel and a 10 w DDC pump of the 3rd and 4th channels ( 2 pumps in series, so if one fails system doesn't stop) As you can see you should have no issues with the 6 fans you wish to run and may not need the water block. I would suggest you buy a Aquastream XT USB pum...
AQ6 thread shows how awesome it is,
the in out Rad is a measure of how much work the radiator is doing. (They can also be used as an approximate power consumption if you have a flow meter.) i use the difference between rad in/out as the control for pump speed and fan speeds, as in my case surfing the web etc, my in/out is 0.3C and rises rapidly to >1.0C when gaming. not sure of the use of an in/out for cpu? CPU blocks have known characteristics; for a given water flow the CPU will rise XX degrees C. Better to use openhardware moni...
can but I am not sure it is really required, as you will use the USB interface to motherboard.
a lot of your questions are to do with water cooling, not just the AQ5, from your diagram point 5) molex to power, never ever ever - plug anything into the AQ5 while it is powered up. USB needs to go to motherboard USB. - so AQ5 can be programmed with Aquasuite. Tacho needs to go to CPUfan socket on motherboard - so bios does not fail to load. Think one end of the cable to the flowmeter is different to a usual fan plug Think of aquabus as being like USB, allows you to connect lots of devices in ...
Zitat von »Epreal« Thank you. Do any of you know if its possible to get an USB cable which have a normal USB connector in one end. IE i need to connect it from outside my case. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Akasa-EXUSBIE…38dfb0e0&_uhb=1 something like this will do the job, simplly remove the pins to convert to female
spec on air is aprox 1A /channel to get 1.65A you would need the water cooling block or active air cooling on AQ5 heatsink
lots of "I am too lazy to do research" type questions
optional extra water cooling block for AQ5 http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info…roducts_id=2671
I have the AQ5 with water cooling block optional extra run 2 Laing DDC 1T (10W) water pump - on channel 1 and 3 on channel 2 and 4- I run 3 fans and 6 fans no problems
Zitat von »pegleg« what do i need to reflash the aquaero or the flow meter and what should i try to set the alarm on the mps or the aquaero? Overview select gear/cog and choose to export page (overview is separate to profile) Aquaero select: system select "settings" and export profile Select "firmware upgrade" and choose to upgrade firmware...if you are already at latest - no problem just overwrite. select "Settings" import profile. select Aquaero choose alarm action you are not using ie alarm ...
looks good for 2 loops, I am assuming you are using the mps temperature sensor as either in or out side of radiator, so placement of device is important.
Export profiles and re-flash firmware, this resolved issue for me where fan channel 4 although programmed to start never actually did anything, Given your other post indicating a molex was not correctly fitted, perhaps you have damaged the firmware or device. Setting fan channel to flow meter is to give the option of a second flow meter, as you are not plugging your single flow meter into it it should be set to operate as a fan. And with everything now coming with USB interface perhaps this is n...
The USB is required for updating firmware and using Aquasuit. Is getting complex now everything has a USB interface, lots of duplication for temperature inputs, remember you are buying the AQ5 for fan control (4 channels) and lighting channels(3) It also has 8 temperature sensors inputs ( you need at least 2 IN and OUT of radiators) an rpm signal so that motherboard will boot (connect to CPU fan header on motherboard) aquabus - for daisy chaining devices ( remember Y cables are available) There ...
Zitat von »eltebe« Doesn't software store profiles as well or only the hardware does and software is for setuping things only? No the AS only works with current selected profile, it does not have tabs so you can switch. You have to manually switch profiles ( simple) or set up profile selection via alarm action's ( complex) The functions of the AQ5 pro /XT can be programmed with the buttons.
wow is the HDD power cable a custom item?
think you will find it is the MPS
make sure you are above minimum voltage for the fans.
is a bit like getting your first android based phone, you have to play with it for about half an hour to get used to it.
sadly not, usually what happens is old profiles cannot be used with new firmware, and there is a lot of changes with latest Aquasuite. perhaps a good idea to familiarize your self with your setup before you update firmware. I am at firmware 1030 then install latest software Aquasuite 2013. http://aquacomputer.de/software.html
attach it to the aquabus high connection, with an aquabus cable the 100% on the Channel 1 (12V) is simply because you have set it to flow sensor, which is normal, you have fan connected so set to fan USB flow sensor is MPS in aquasuite I am unsure what you are using the power out for? and at only 10%? I am wondering why you are controlling the 4 banks via fixed temperature, is your room climate controlled?
Can program AQ5 pro at the AQ5, even if software issue. AQ5 pro has 4 profiles, the LT only 1 I have a quiet case with a door, so I also do not normally see the display. Usually you have the reservoir at the input of the pump, I have flow meter before reservoir simply because, with a small case I had limited options, it used to be after the pumps(2). perhaps spend a little time looking at google images of how others have setup their loops, for example I dont have a window on the side of my case,...
Q1 sorry no experience, but i would buy nano coating! I think you will still have some pump noise... Q4 I use Open hardware monitor, gives me CPU and GPU temps....but I dont use them as imput variables..only for reference. The AQ5 is self contained..keeping it simple..I use it's hardware inputs Q5 inline liquid temperature sensors http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info…roducts_id=2293 i prefer in and out of radiator(ie 2 sensors), but placement of sensors somewhat of a topic on forum. And Ambi...
what happens if you connect the mps400 to the "flow" connection on the PA2 using a 3 pin fan cable? may require to set calibration value for mps as i had to with older "high flow" flow meter.
Is a good question? Although I am not sure from your question where the fan headers are for.."ill use the fan headers to control for instance the radiator fans?" It appears you are trying to use one PA2 ultra to control 2 pumps?? yes The 3 pin fan header on the D5 is "tacho" signal for connection to motherboard for RPM reporting, so bios does not report cpu fan fail and refuse to boot. It is not a fan power source. Second 3 pin is for a flow meter. The 4 pin fan header on the D5 is "bus" and als...
sounds like firmware error, a few things I would try: first export your profiles, 1) Turn off computer at the wall socket so that AQ5 is powered down, wait a couple of minutes and then power up computer or 2)do a firmware update from within aquasuite (even though it is the same version), import you profiles. or 3) set profile then uninstall Aquarsuite, to see if AS syncing is the issue.
Given the device functions as a keyboard I guess you would need to map the button, but i don't recall seeing that option in AS, you could use the remote.
Is a good question, if the AQ5 can handle 12W( 1 amp) with aluminum heat sink / channel( it has 4) , what can it do with the copper water block?
Have similar flow from DDC pump (10W), with similar setup. Putting second DDC in series only increases it to 0.6gpm.
great news, one question comes to mind , how old is your loop?
Its ok Jack, you are doing what I do too often, unable to "see" the other point of view - I justify my own.
Suggest: Export profiles Export Overview (exporting profile doesnt save it) upgrade firmware(even though it is the same as what you have) Import profile Import Overview.
Zitat von »cpachris« It's a good discussion....but just continues to prove the point that you really can't make generalizations that hold true for every system. I don't want someone to be steered away from using a rad in/out delta....because depending on your loop, order, radiator space, and external environment.....it may be the best choice by far for you. If you have multiple radiators with blocks in between ( and remember the pump also adds heat to loop) and place your sensors as Jacusonfire...
Looks to me that if you have multiple radiators with blocks in between you get a very uniform fluid temperature across your loop and so Fluid/ambient delta is the main control value,. I have a single large radiator so my experience is like cpacris and I use rad IN/OUT delta as the basis for pump and fan control. To avoid annoying pump noise changes as jakusonfire pointed out, so I have only 2 modes - quiet and load. perhaps if i had purchased Pa2's to control pumps I would have a spare fan chann...
Getting an Aquaero and AQ gear is a steep "learning curve" with limited documentation and lots of trial and error. Have to say it appears to me to be a bit of a waste setting PA2 to 100%, point of having AQ5 and PA2 is so that they can be used to control pump(s) in real time. But then perhaps you are just at the beginning of your "curve"
RPM signal is independent of fan channels, and does not increase with any fan rpm. Need to set up alarm configuration and then set alarm action in Aquasuite But as you have not indicated what hardware you have here is what I do with my Aquaero 5 Pro: On alarm configuration page: Fan channel 1( for me master pump) if no signal for 6 seconds "Warning", if no signal for 12 seconds "Alarm/warning 7" On Alarm action page: Alarm /warning 7 turns off tacho signal and also loads profile 4 Profile 4 is v...
look at the location of the blue / silver capacitors on the right side of the circuit boards...even the position of the memory on the boards is different. Does that answer you question about using 780 block on 770?
I am thinking you will have to make your own cables?? Or find research a local source for something like: e http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=P0837 With a cable like this (keep in mind the internals of the chassis mount can be reversed) http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=p…odel=EXUSBIE-40 Then you can get a long USB cable for connection when you need, and can remove when not needed.
Zitat von »JuicyBox« I too am considering purchasing a Gigant 3360, however, there's not much info on the shop.aquacomputer.de site as far as info on how to mount the pumps / reservoir / fans brackets. Someone from Aquacomputer really needs to create some support docs on this product & it's accessories & add some more pictures for the mounting mechanisms and g1/4 locations. So far, I'm seriously cross shopping the Gigant 3360 w/ the Watercool MO-RA3 420. The MO-RA3 is pretty straightforward as ...
I doubt they will change that as they appear to only post the latest build and expect people to use the Aquasuite inbuilt software update.
surprised they dont have DDC option
my rad 360mm * 360mm and about 50mm thick is supposed to be good for 200W passive it looks from the photos that each of the 4 sides of the gigan is of a similar radiator core design, but huge ~ 900mm high by ~200mm wide, but not sure of thickness, I guess 25mm. So i would imagine you would be looking at least 500 - 600W passive
i want you to buy it just so you can answer your question
could always run one or 2 sensors from you AQ to the aluminium body of the hard drives. Then you are not software dependent, I find OHM reported values jump around too much, but I have not/will not cough up the 40 for AIDA64. You can always set the default value of the software sensors so that if OHM fails/crashes your fan is turned on. Given how much HDD capacity has increased over the years, and how many "small " drives I have laying around the shed, I gave up on trying to get 10 years out of ...
quick google for for your 690's gives ~285W playing Crysis3 (~ 350W each MAX) , for the i7-3960x I assume a 140W package but how much power does it chew when overclocked Over clocking 3960x to 4.8GHz in this article http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/11/1…/8#.UbmS9vkzh9I it would appear system load is ~350W (~500W @ 4.8G) So 350 +350 + 500 = ~1200W. In a way 720XT would handle the load, but as you would at peak be getting close to the radiators limit you have to assume you would need a hell of ...
try flashing with aquasuite 4.72, it appears from similar questions - all you can do is keep trying to flash it ( until you give up). Common issue is people not power off before changing cables.
27.04.2024, 22:53
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