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Suchergebnisse 1-50 von insgesamt 708.
any PWM fan that receives no PWM signal will default to max speed. It's not due to the Splitty, that's just how all PWM fans work. If you turn off the channel in the aquaero, there's no PWM control signal going to the fans, and they will go to max speed instantly. The Aquaero gives them no power because it's an active splitter. it only takes PWM signal from the aquaero, and sends it back the speed signal taken from the fan plugged on the middle connector that's tagged as "rpm". You need one fan ...
the 14900K is already pushed way hard out of the box. if you are into extreme overclock then yes you should delid. if it's for a gaming rig, then overclocking an already very overclocked CPU is pointless, unless you live in a cold place and need the extra heating :p performance gains are very minimal compared to the induced power draw.
you don't need two pumps to cool a CPU, one is waaaaaaaaaaay more than enough for CPU, GPU and a bunch of radiators. Pump flow is not important for cooling as long as you have enough flow for the waterblocks to work correctly (usually it's fairly low like, below 100L/h). Increasing flow above that doesn't have much effect at all. All you need is enough radiator area. Even with a 240mm in a custom loop would be enough for a 14900K. Also, coolant will never reach the CPU temperature. An overclocke...
opaque coolants, even those that advertise no "redeposition" do end up making clumps of particles everywhere. in fittings, in rads, in blocks... And since the ceramic bearing of the pumps is water lubricated, you basically end up adding slightly abrasive slurry in the water. long term damages aside, if you want to go back to clear coolant, it's a nightmare ' I used an opaque coolant once for 3 weeks, and have had cloudiness in my loop for the following two years despite numerous flushes, complet...
you have to add first your virtual sensor there, in a software sensor slot (clicking data source): Once you added it, it will appear in fans => controler source => select data source is that what you did ?
you need to go to the Octo Sensors page. Select any of the software sensors available, and click data source. On the list, in the "Data from Aquacomputer Service", you have your virtual sensors. Once the Octo software sensor is attributed to the virtual sensor of your choice, you can use it for fan control
the speed readout missing is why startup boost goes up and down, it is required for the controller to know it managed to kickstart the fan. that said it's not really required to use it if your fan curve doesn't start really low like 200 rpm or so. If it is just one fan misbehaving, what happens if you connect all the fans to the Quadro, but make another working fan be the one reporting speed?
Maybe signal integrity of the RPM signal if you have a lot of cable. Also make sure your splitters have only one male connector with 4 pins, and only 3 pins on all the others. there's still some splitters around that have the tachometer signal wired on all connectors and that will make a mess. Only one fan has to report speed to the quadro. And how are the fans powered? by the computer's PSU or another power supply?
there are power supplies with a molex connector. with a suitable splitter i imagine that'd be all you would need. That missing ground lug is annoying though.. when i used that i had to solder a bridge between the grounds on the splitter i was using.
hmm.. sneaky background bitcoin miner?
often it's like one software will read the IO die temp (often the highest temp at idle), and another will read the CCD temp. Maybe compare CCD and IOD, and see if Aquasuite may be reporting the IO die temp. Also, maybe try HWinfo64 just to be sure. HWmonitor can be a bit dodgy at times.
that's PID control, it's a tad advanced and most likely not necesary to start by the most complicated fan control option it's a control method used a lot on industrial machines. Nerdy users may want to experiment with that sometimes, but it's rare anyone uses it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proportion…tive_controller You define those 3 factors so the systems responds to load without like brutal fan accelerations, or decelerating too soon after load, causing oscillations etc.
You can read virtual sensors in HWinfo64 if you define them in one of the software sensor slots of one of your devices. That's pretty handy since even RGB controllers like the Farbwerk360 has 16 software sensor slots. you have plenty available to expose your virtual sensors to HWinfo
hmm. i'm just commenting from the experience of others, having very high conductivity reading.. but maybe it was tweaked in software since then?
the conductivity sensor is more or less useless for coolants like the Cryofuel, or other non-glycol based concentrates. the reading will be high from the start. if you switch to DP ultra (after a thorough flush) the reading should drop way down and the sensors will make sense.
it has a Windows 3.11 feel
yea, got to weight the drawbacks of needing two pumps and losing flow and real estate in the case VS how many times per year you'll actually take the loop apart. If you make your loop struggle all year long to gain 5 minutes when doing changes, it might not be too useful. Otherwise it's cool;
yea, even for a very free flowing loop, 35% is way too low so what you have now is just not enough flow for the blocks to work properly, which i guess is fine at idle, but the minute any load starts you have to crank up the speed immediately. You'd be better off having a higher base speed instead of stressing the pump electronics with constant acceleration/decelerations. You'll be able to see that well once you have flowmeters installed, but just to give you an idea of the typical values i see a...
Zitat For example i'm working with a Delta of 5C at idle and more than double that under any significant load. Time and future tests on the new system with like 3x the rad space will tell, and ill make the necessary config changes to the controller. if you have that much at idle (if it is radiators input/output difference) it usually means really REEALLY low water flow. smaller rad surface area shouldn't impact differential that much. In fact with less surface area, you should have smaller diff...
Zitat von »DeathToTheWind« I also use 4 temp sensors and will be upping that to 8. I'm less worried about reporting inaccuracies with that many. I also found that the Koolance ones seem to be the most accurate as all of their probes, including the inline ones, have temp probes protruding into the coolant path, as opposed to just buried in the wall. The problem is those 8 are probably not in the same places in the loop, so you never know which ones read correct :p NTC thermistors are notoriously...
only the D5 is watercooled and still, it dumps such minute amounts of heat in the water that you can basically disregard it. The temperature sensors are so imprecise anyway you'll probably have bigger measurement errors than pump heat "offsets". If you use DDC pumps for space savings, they are air cooled so it won't trouble the measures during your tests. What ChatGPT told you about flow rates influencing heat transfer is correct but in our case with computer watercooling, the energies involved ...
Basically don't worry about the nitpicking yes do what you want. it's not called "CUSTOM" loop for nothing !
There is no temperature change at increased waterflow if you stay clear of that minimum limit. that was an extreme example running a pump at 60L/h to show at what threshold the waterblocks i use stop functionning well. if i drop it to 50L/h, the GPU temp under load rises by like 10°C. I run the pump typically around 120L/h (~50%PWM) and between this and full speed there's basically no temperature difference. As long as you are well clear of that minimum flow requirement from your blocks, the onl...
spoiler : increasing pump speed will do nothing for cooling. it only helps if your flow is way too low and the water goes through the waterblock at a snail's pace. but as soon as the waterblocks have enough flow to not "overheat", there's almost no effect with increasing pump speed. That minimum flow requirement changes from block to block, so there's no universal value. just as an example, on my rig if i let the flow drop below 60l/h (~700 rpm), the GPU heats up drastically. but between 70 and ...
just to play around? the first thing that came to my mind when looking at it is that Aquasuite already has automatic profile switching based off whatever you want.
usually it happens with software sensors, when you forget to set a fallback value for those sensors. they may default to a generic "100" which may send your fans to full speed at boot. It could be also specific to your fans. Some fans default to full speed if the PWM signal is low or lost, in which case you'd have to use the hold minium power toggle and set the minimum power on the slider just above it.
maybe try to increase the service start delay in Aquasuite settings ?
are those sensors using HWinfo data by any chance? it happens sometimes that you have to reselect the sensors after an update of aquasuite or HWinfo.
I had the same problem when trying to relocate my hanging sensor in the case, on a push intake fan. the ambient was varying too much and the fan speed as a consequence was always too low, letting the coolant heat up more than it should (temp climbs fast, delta climbs slow because "ambient" rises too). I quickly pulled it out again to hang outside the case and now it's more silent and cool again.
Hi, I received today some Phanteks Neon strips and got the AC adapter to connect them to my FW360 controllers, but it doesn't work at all. Turns out that Phanteks, in their great wisdom, thought it was a good idea to have a male connector as output (with exposed live pins) instead of female. So basically, this cable should have a male connector to work with Phanteks strips. They just don't light up at all if connected as it is. I used a spare "standard" RGB to male JST that i had to get them to ...
the whole thing has like two 90°, it's going to be fairly high flow. Those HWlabs rads are going to be the biggest restriction tbh. Maybe if you have spare tubing, cut two longer pieces to connect the flowmeter, and hold it horizontal to test ?
I imagine one of the issues you may have installing it vertically is that the air will not have a clear place to settle. It may stay in the res, or not. Also in your drawing you have the water flow backwards it seems. The Alphacool pump top flows from the D5 to the reservoir, so, as it stands you most likely have your pump running dry since it can't access the water from the reservoir. you'll have to connect the reservoir to the pump inlet on the back of the case, and outlet to the radiator (swa...
looks like the typical airlock situation. Can you take photos of the PC so we can have a look at the loop layout? maybe something obvious will pop up instead of trying to guess
that is not a big loop that would require two pumps. One D5 will make it run without breaking a sweat. I feel you may have had a bit of an airlock somewhere that prevented any waterflow. Since the reservoir is on top of the PC you have to manage to get water to get back up which is not easy when you are trying to purge the air. Fill, angle the case every which way to work air up, refill, repeat. (remember to make sure the reservoir is properly closed when you tilt the case ) when you can't manag...
what does your loop looks like? If you don't get flow with one D5, there might be a big problem somewhere else and slapping a second pump would be like a bandaid on a wooden leg.
grab all the wires firmly, flat, and pull the very small white connector is for quadro and octo yes. And no it doesn't extend your aquasuite update subscription. it is not a USB device.
don't they all use the same display found on waterblocks and standalone Vision units? they are monochrome OLED if i'm correct. My Vision display has only managed to make white, no matter if it's in white or black letters. What can happen tho is if your case RGB is of a certain color, when you look at a white background, your eyes will have to adapt to see it white
Zitat von »Karalux« Thats the easy way but far from perfect. I put the temp probe on one of my CPU air coolers heatpipes. Its readings fluctuate between 28 and 36 degrees C depending on CPU load. The problem is that when having short bursts of heavy CPU load, there is not enough time to heat the probe up and CPU temperature raises. If the heat pipe, and the fins aren't hot yet, there's no point in accelerating the fans. It's the same thing with watercooling, just aircooling heats up faster. The...
the easy way would be to stick a temperature probe on the aircooler and plug that on the quadro, set a curve on windows to control the fans based off that sensor and save it on the quadro's profile. Like that it'll work without need for any software.
well it's managed by the aquasuite service, not by the app, so you can close it. same for virtual sensors, lighting etc
the short answer is sensors aren't too accurate. I mean they are not calibrated to anything. You'd have to connect them both at the same point in the loop and see how far off they are from each other, then correct on aquasuite with an offset on one of them. That said it doesn't seem abnormal to me. It's mostly the GPU that heats up the water a lot in normal use. Because you have a rad in between the two blocks, you don't really know what temperature water the CPU block is getting. And your pump ...
maybe have a look at your windows services (open the start menu and type "services", the services app should pop up in the list). Look at the aqua computer service and make sure its startup option is set to automatic
yep. as far as i know, the brightness control is for the RGB output, not for the profile, so it's the same across. What you can do is just select the same colors but darker for profile 1, and bob's your mother's brother.
depends if your monitor acts as a powered hub for the USB ports it has. if it does, the 5M connexion to the PC won't matter.
I thought your monitor USB was connected to the PC otherwise yes, it wouldn't make sense.
adding a diode may not help. it will have a voltage drop across it of about half a volt for your typical silicon diode. for a 5V power, that's already a massive 10% lost. Also, the PC and the monitor's 5V don't have the same ground reference so if you only plugged the 5V wire it can have funny results, and the Octo may not like being powered from an output (without the diode that is). If you connect both the 5V and ground, you then also have two different grounds.. that the data line is referenc...
That depends on your fans. some fans will default to 100% speed if they receive no PWM signal, while some others will just stop. Also on your graph, the voltage and PWM are set to 0 and the fans are at full speed. Are they on a powered PWM hub?
It seems you're trying to do a Curve controller style of behaviour with the target temperature one. Target temperature will try to maintain the water at the setpoint you want. if your water is colder, it will let it warm up to reach the target temperature, and keep it there no matter what the load is. It will try not to let the water temperature get colder, nor hotter, but maintain it at the temperature you have set.
if the pressure (or basically the reservoir level) drops very slightly when accelerating the pump, it's likely you still have air trapped in the loop somewhere too.
That post on the HWinfo forum would be a good feature request for Aquasuite : Shared Memory Support | Page 2 | HWiNFO Forum Apparently we can't use in a quasuite data coming from HWinfo remote monitoring, despite the data being exposed through shared memory. Aquasuite only displays the monitoring data of the local machine. That would be pretty cool if we could access all. We can have data from other aquasuite instances on other machines through aquasuite web, but having access to HWinfo remote m...
16.04.2024, 13:02
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