Suchergebnisse
Suchergebnisse 1-50 von insgesamt 60.
The Evo is awesome when used in combination with a TEC/Peltier System as the water comes into contact with alot more surface area!!!!
Zitat von »Nitrix« hummmmmm? whats the site??? could be why you never got replies...soem one beat you to the punch.
Hey Jessica, I have one project you might be interested in showing off on your site which is almost finished. If you search for Tsunami Zen Master here or on some other O/C forums you should find it also I am working on a new project with the Lian-Li V1100 and the Cuplex which is going to incoperate a TEC/Peltier as well.
well if your going for the tidy but easy to fill route you could do what i did:
Ok trust me you want plastic srews rather than metal as over tightening with metal screws can do several things....crack or bend the GPU this can break connections with vital components or result in a crushed core....the plastic screws are designed to slip/thread and in doing so protect you from having to replace the GPU rather than some cheap plastic nuts and bolts. Also just having metal nuts can cause serious issues, take alook at the photos and check out just how close some of those capcitor...
ok thats no problem thats well within the specs I require thanks for the response
ok no problem ...... i already have an aquastream its just the flow sensor is actually killing my flow and raising water temps! > I guess i will remove the 1048, flow sensor and put the Aquastream back in place.
Connecting the Eheim 1048 to a aquastream Control plate.....is this possible? ???
I need to know what the plastic used on A/C waterblocks is and what temps it is rated to prefereably the minus temps they are rated to. The waterblock in question is the Cuplex Evo. I need to know if the plastic can indure temps around -100C.
Zitat von »BubbySoup« Hi, I am just about to order my new PC and have decided to watercool it. I am really after silence over o/c but obviously any o/c I can get from the watercooling is a bonus! What I woud like to know is if the Evo 120 will be good enough to cool my AMD FX55 and perhaps my ATI 850XT-PE. No chipset or hard-drive cooling and maybe not even my graphics card depending on how quiet the fan is when it arrives. Many thanks! Bubby Actually you'll be fine with the "Evo 120" If you ...
Zitat von »Nitrix« ok i get the foto's are copyrighted. if you know what i have written why has no one got back to me? second, i have e-mailed all different e-mails alot of time and even tried phoning so if you could contact me to deal with the matter or get someone who can that would be great may addy is Nitrix AT ntlworld.com if you could do this it would be a great help my man. Many thanks for your time Nitrix please don't take this the wrong way, but i have seen many of your posts and I'm a...
Zitat von »Lev« really nice mod, congratulations But there's one thing I would definitely change: Looks like you've used Y-Plugs to divide the water circuit. This is quite a dangerous thing to do as nobody can exactly predict which way the water will take. It's better to remove these Y-Plugs and then use a single in-a-row-circuit instead. greetings Actually the photos shown are of the old system layout and the Y-plugs have been removed. Also I finally got the window etching finished !!! Ya-Hoo ...
Panic over worked out the problem all is well!~ ;D
Hey all need help after installing my Aquero, after connecting all the sensors and plugging it it Device manager reports it as an unknown device then after installing the software I get the error " No Aquero Found"
Zitat von »Shoggy« Hehe, if you had taken a look in the manual you would know that this is the relay-connector. It can be use to turn off your PC in case of emergency (e.g. too high temperature). Ahh thank you in my manual there was a mistyped and it's called a Relais....and I had no idea what a Relais was, thanks for clearing that up! ;D
Thankyou I wanted to try something that hadn't been done before and was also a benifit to the user..... I like to know what my temps are while gaming or using other full screen applications where I don't want to be bending under the desk every 5 minutes.....not such a good idea when playing games like Doom 3 or Counter Strike! So mounting it on the monitor seemed the obvious choice.
Ok maybe a picture will help: As you can see both the Aquaero & Aquastream have the 12v output for the actual pump (Highlighted in red) so I was supposing that the Aquaero could control the pump without the Aquastream controller
thanks for the praise! ;D It's actually a completely finished project I did at the beginning of the year and is actually finished. Although the monitor stayed the same (No back plate) although the flow did. The split was setup after the CPU water block and one went back to the resevior the other to the GPU and NB this drop the temps by 5 C Im also working on another project right now using the Lian-Li V1100 case which is more of a cooling power house with the incoperation of a water chiller her...
Zitat von »NikoMo« whith the aquaero you are able to control 2 aquastreams. So the mounting is bolts on the back of the Aquaero is for a secondary Aquastream while the Primary is built into the Aquaero? So basicly I now have an extra AquaStream! :
Here are a few images of the final product:
So now the stand is going nowhere and I don’t have to worry about those bolts scratching up my desk. Now you’re probably wondering about the fan grills and what happened to the redundant 40mm fan grill I had made for the Northbridge cooler. Well here she is, I loved this little fan grill and I really didn’t want it going to waste so I decided to incorporate into the monitor design. Well this is where I decided to place it, smack bang in the middle of the stand base. Now it was time to mate the s...
TFT LCD Monitor Modification Part 2 Monitor Stand and Fixings The second step was to modify the stand on which the monitor would sit, I decided to make the link between the monitor and the actual PC here as I really like the skeleton look of the monitor but also I really wanted to have it themed like the PC case. I decided that I would construct the base in exactly the same way as I had the stealthed drive bays. As I had a lot of the polycarbonate left over (The middles of the Monitor Frame) I ...
Again I used the same brushed tubing to cover the bolts for the LCD this time I got thinner ones as the bolts where only 0.2mm as the depth between the PCB and the polycarbonate was only 8mm I decided to take these ones down with a file. Now these tubes really are needed for the LCD as if I affixed it directly to the polycarbonate the PCB flexes and pushes the second PCB attached to it out by about 3mm. Again it was also in keeping with the whole project so I thought it best to keep them in plac...
Once that was done I was left with the ruff cut frame ready to be sanded and marked out for drilling. Due to this method of cutting it left one or two of the edges a little bowed, so the next job was to file them down to perfectly straight lines. For this I used metal rulers on both sides of the polycarbonate sheet placed precisely at the correct height and then filed away the raised area, I did this on all the internal edges even on the two sides that looked perfect as they also had very low ra...
TFT LCD Monitor Modification Method After along period of measuring and marking out of the acrylic I decided to move across to Polycarbonate as it’s easier to fabricate. Fortunately I had all the measurements already written out so it was just a case of getting the set square, measure and marker out again. Next was selecting the correct tools for the job, In this next picture it shows all the blades that came with the Black & Decker Zip Saw the top one is for plastics but on trying it out on th...
I had some free time this evening so i started to mark out the acrylic sheet for the monitor frame. I spent a good 2 hours getting it perfect ready for cutting as it needs to be 100% accurate as any slight defect will really show… and I really don’t want to have to sit In front of a monitor that I don’t like the look of! I will need to cut the middle out of this sheet but I’m really not sure how to do it … Some people complain about Dremel melting the plastic along the cut and I really don’t wan...
The final part was to file the corners round and to sand it down, to do this I used 800 grit up to 2000 grit, I then used the Holts abrasive polish to get the shine finish. After 10 minutes of elbow grease I had the finish I wanted and then assembled the front button panel. Now that the actual plate is finished for the button panel I’m not sure where to go from here. I have two designs in mind the 1st is to leave it be now and have the bare metal for the button plate and then do something with t...
As I said in the previous post the first step of this will be to modify the button panel, again this is on a type of IDE cable that easily detaches from the monitor so in doing so made the next part a whole lot easier for me. I purchased aluminium in the end, several reasons why, it matches the case, doesn’t rust and is easy to fabricate into the finished product. I cut the panel bigger than the actual unit as the mounting holes are off on one side so by making the front plate longer it enabled ...
WARNING MODIFICATION OF ANY MONITOR IS DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH. THIS THREAD IS IN NO WAY ENDORSING TAMPERING OR MODIFYING YOUR MONITOR AND ANYONE DECIDING TO DO SO, DOES AT THEIR OWN RISK. Method The first thing to do is unplug the monitor and let it sit for a couple of days to de-charge I left mine 3 days but I know that they have been known to keep a charge for up to 2 weeks, so if your not sure either don’t modify it or leave it longer. As you can see the sub-frame is fant...
Ok well I’m waiting on other people now to finish the remaining parts of the case so I have decided to press on with part 2 of “Tsunami Zen Master” TFT LCD Monitor Modification Well as this is a total system modification I can’t let my stock LCD monitor go without at least seeing a screwdriver…. Actually this will be the 3rd time this monitor has been stripped and modified but the previous times it has only been for a re-spray. Objective Well as you spend almost most of your time looking at the ...
[Size=3]U.V LED Lighting.[/size] The following shots aren’t too different from the Blue LED’s but there really is a big difference when looking at it with the human eye. And maybe I will take some shots without the low light intensifier on the camera. Now I’m not sure if I want to put U.V LED’s behind the front plate of the case as I think that will make it too bright and negate the medium lighting setting that I was looking for. This final image is on the “OFF” Setting with only the LED fan in ...
So I know your gagging for images of the lighting so here you go: [Size=3]Blue LED Lighting.[/size] Now the inside of the case is lighted with ONE of these Laser LED's as i said earlier you really need to wear sunglasses of your postioning these while on! They colouring is also pefect and matches the lighting on the front of the case and also the reservoir.
Once I got everything sorted it was time to arrange all the other Molex connectors. Not amazingly tidy but everything is in order and labelled so I know what is what. The front viewable has really benefited from the rebuild and the clutter is reduced, can you spot the 3 Laser LED’s in there?
[Size=3]Window Lighting Mod.[/size] Time for an update! Well I finally got off my butt and setup the lighting¡K. I can understand why I wasn't to keen on doing this as I had to take the whole system apart again but in doing so I found better wiring solutions for a few things as well so it was actually a good thing. It just took me around 3 hours to strip it and rewire it though! [Size=3]Objective[/size] So what's been done? Well going totally against the original concept and requests by the wife...
Update on the overclocking of the Graphics Card Card ATI Radeon 9800 Pro 128MB Core Clock: 450 MHz Memory Clock: 760 MHz 3DMark Score: 6332 These are the first oc's I have done so I might be able to go higher...... I will keep you all posted.But I'm glad I put those heat sinks on the memory as they are warm which means they are working! Also I'm sure I can score higher If I do some system tweaking so any Benchmark pro's out there let me know all the window and bios setting tweaks I need to know!...
Well I'm waiting on everything and nothing! Spoke to the guys at Lunagenlabs.com and they have confimred shipment so I'm hoping they arrive before Golden Week (A weeks worth of National Holidays where the entire population *or close to it* go on holiday) other wise I'm in for a long wait! I got an e-mail from FrozenCPU.com telling the person that was dealing with my window etching o longer works for them so i have had to start that process all over again! So i have no idea when that will be fini...
[Size=3]Video Card Ram Sink Mod[/size] Well I had a busy day yesterday over in Akihabara looking for bits for the case, I didn’t buy anything major which the wife was shocked at but I did pick up some great lights for the case and also 2 heat sinks for the following mod! Now I have noticed the serious lack of dedicated GPU memory heat sinks out there, and I was particularly after a certain style….. Much to my annoyance they aren’t made. So I decided to make my own. Now Alpha make some great CPU ...
Now this controller has a wide variety of functions, The people over at VL Sys have put it together so that it can interact with Win Amp, WMP, MBM5 and your e-mail service provider! As well as all the usual functions like; Time, Real Time CPU clock, CPU-RAM usage and other system reporting tools and these can be either scrolled through manually using the system tray Icon or as a user specified cycle going through everything you selected. As I said the amount of things it can do are vast so I wil...
LCD Modification Around a year and a half ago I built an external LCD system monitor, unfortunately because I used standard paint on aluminum the paint really didn’t hold that well and started to look a bit shabby so I took it apart and the LCD lived in my bits box for about a year. So what with the new project I decided to take it out and dust it off. I originally wanted to put it on top of the case like the pump controller but unfortunatly I completly ran out of room. Although saying that I'm ...
Total Power Supply Modification Part 2 You were all probably thinking why the hell has he only got three Molex cables? Well I decided as I said to have a totally adaptable power supply and to do so I built my own custom attachments that clip onto the PSU Molex connectors. The first step was to measure out the distances and make the appropriate lengths of cable to reach the hardware they would be supplying power to then I needed to work out how many outputs I required. The first one I decided to...
I then wired it up to the old motherboard I have to test it to make sure nothing was amiss or not working all together After making sure it was all ok I made the finishing touches to it and was ready to put it back into the case. As you can see from the before and after shots it’s a totally different PSU now and totally clutter free! Before After
As you can see there is already a massive improvement on the PSU, but I’m still not happy with it. As I really hate the Yellow, Black ,Black , Red scheme they have going on and the sheaving of the ATX cable is seriously under par! So I decided to go about changing it. This next part has to be the most boring and laborious thing to do but the finished result is worth it. I decided to sleeve the Molex cables to tidy them up and to also draw attention away from them as In some case modifications I ...
Total Power Supply Modification Part 1 Maybe some of you like me are a little annoyed with the state of their cabling inside their system, especially if they have a window or require a good airflow through the case. Now a lot of out the box PSU’s tend in my opinion to be cluttered with lots of excessive cables and Molex attachments so my plan was to rebuild my PSU to my cases specifications but with the added bonus of being able to adapt it to any case or configuration if necessary. [Size=3]WAR...
SoundBlaster Audigy Mod Some of you out there might have the same Sound card as me, the SoundBlaster Audigy Platinum EX. Now this card although not the best is still pretty good and I like the external port that I can sits on my desk. Although I do have one major gripe about it and that’s the HUGE IDE cable connecting the main Audigy card to the external connection port. I mean this thing is not only long but it’s damn wide as well! Now in my old case that wasn’t such a problem as I had the spa...
Extra Some of you might have noticed a mark in the bottom right hand corner of the stealthed drive, well this is a little extra I add, technically I have de-stealthed it and I’m not sure if it’s going to stay yet so let me know what you think. While at the huge electronics store near where I live I came across these clear sticker sheets that can be printed on using an Inkjet printer. So I bought a sheet and decided to add some decals to the stealthed drives just to remind people where to push wh...
Next I used an industrial strength double sided tape, to tape the piece of plexi to the drive tray and then another piece of tape to stick to the Case bezel. Now here’s a little trick for you to align the bezel and the tray perfectly. Plug you drive back in and close the CD-tray remove the protective film from the tape and align the case bezel over the top of the drive. Eject your CD-tray using “Eject from desktop” and hold the Case bezel firmly over the CD-tray. The tray should then affix itsel...
I used the face plate to mark out the area I will be cutting including the holes for the mounting bolts, now one thing I have learnt is that plexi loves to shatter or snap when drilled so I decided to drill out the holes 1st then cut it. I used the drill on the lowest setting and again used only the weight of the drill as pressure, go slowly. Then using the cutting tool and ruler I scored deep lines across the marked lines, now be really careful and use a metal rule as this cutter will eat plast...
[Size=4]Optical Drive Stealthing [/size] So taking the original face plate that came with the case I started on the path of stealth. Now I now a lot of you know how to do this but while searching the forums I couldn’t really find a post walking people through this mod, so I thought I would do so from beginning to end. Objectives To make optical drives invisible to the eye. Enable the drives to be opened without using “Eject from Desktop” To have a stylish finish that is in keeping with the style...
I decided that after all the work cutting and moding the case I wanted to do something a little laid back and fun. (Not saying that what I have done previously wasn’t fun) So I decided to work on the look of the front of the case. I already had the design in mind and it revolves around the bolts on the top of the case. I love the brushed Aluminum look but also wanted something more to emphasise the style of the case. So using the standard face plate I started on the next stage. What I intended t...
While I had the system up and running I notice that the HDD’s where poking out over the motherboard and the cabling causing a lot of clutter! I can’t be having that! You can see by these photo’s the amount of space wasted especially with that Stupid fan cage removed a whole 3.5 cm wasted! It would be fine if the airflow from the front of the case was good but as everyone knows its poo! So it’s out with the ruler and drills again! To reclaim that 3.5 cm that belongs to me! I didn’t want to remove...
25.04.2024, 04:16
Sprache ändern
Registrieren
Anmelden
