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Suchergebnisse 1-50 von insgesamt 78.
Thx Shoggy for your quick answer. Nice to know it now. Cheers, friku EDIT: Hm, would be a good implementation for a new soft for aquaero? Write it down aquacomputer.
That´s my question. Can the aquaero read below zero temps? Thanks in advance. Kind regards, friku
Well, haven´t test it really, but have read much about it. Just now i´ve installed a rad with two entrances and 2 separated circuits inside. This helps water-flow to be slower through the rad and the dissipation better. The performance of this type of rads and the Evo one (have one installed too) is better. Here at Spain several people always ask the same question, if rads connected in parallel would perform better as in serial. The answer of people that had tested the two ways of connection is ...
Temps would improve if the two rads are connected in parallel, not in serial. That´s because the rads dissipate better at higher water temps. If the water that goes through the rad is too "cold", the rad isn´t able to dissipate as much as if the water is a little hotter. R11-D03: Nice. Making a shroud to separate the fans a little more (2.5-3cm.) would improve air-flow if the fans are attached in the "blowing-over the fins" way. Cheers, friku.
ok ich find es genial... (ufff..., hehe) Let us know if after the remodeling everything goes right, or at least, better. Cheers, friku.
I think that one of the solutions could be what you´ve posted before. Making two separate cooling zones. A top one with the rad and the lower one with the mobo. I know some friends of mine having the mobo zone without any fans installed and the rig works fine. Cheers, friku.
Hi again: You can try to place 2 12cm. fans on the upper part of the case, just were you´ve got the sound dampening material. Just cut 2 holes for the 12cm. fans there. Place them blowing fresh air into this upper part, so the radiator has more and better ventilation. Arrange also the cables that go through the little hole between the upper and lower part of the case to favour a better airflow through this part. The lower zone might have more and better ventilation too, but the main improvement ...
Hi King-Malkav: I´ve been looking for a while to the pics of your rig. I hope i´ts the one I could find in your signature (the first one), although it were fine if you could post some pics of the mounting you have right now. I have some papst installed on my WC rads, but I´ve experienced that the temps don´t decrease very much even at max. revolutions. Probably the substitution of the papst sys coolers with more powerfull ones would be an improvement. But there are some problems that could affec...
Zitat von »Tom« The sensors (called CPU#1 & CPU#2) are fixed on top of the two cuplex evos and measure the actual temparature of the copper-core. This temperature should be very close to the water-temperature - but not equal. I think the exact match here is accidental (due to sensor tolerances). EVOs are quite close to that mfg, Thomas If the sensors are over the copper-core, the temps measured are close to water temps, but not the actual processor temp. Now I understand the temps you´ve post...
Zitat von »Tom« Die 244er sind mit einem Evo-360 garkein Problem - Zwei 248er, eine X800XT-PE und zwei Raptoren sehen so aus: Für genauere Angaben zum System: Klick mal auf die Signatur. Achtung: Du solltest dringend Kühler auf die Spannungsregler kleben und die Temperatur des 8131 überwachen. Wie heiß die NF2000-Chips werden weiß ich (noch) nicht. ;D ja, genau, so heißt er mfg, Thomas 0ºC difference between water and CPU? Incorrect placement of the temp probe? That should be the WaterCooler´s ...
Chewy: Thanks . I know, this big barbs aren´t the most stylish ones, but I´m a bit paranoied with restrictions in the rig and after reading very much over other "american style" forums and over spanish ones (here we like the brute american style too ) I´ve decided this ones. I´ve purchased over Aquacomputer the plug ´n cool ones, but after looking through the hole and seeing that the inner diameter is ~6mm or less, I´ve decided this barbs with ~11mm. Here at Spain we have made serveral test over...
First, thanks for the comments . Hobbes wan Kenobes: Yes, the barbs aren´t very "stylish", but from what I´ve seen over much WC cases, it´s the only way having tubes over 12mm. correctly fixed. In spite of it looks like the tubes would slip off the tubes, the sealing is correct if you use this clamps or if you are a less "afraid" than I am, than you could use less "brute" ones . I know friends that have used other methods in sealing and the final result is more visual pleasant. Some of the barbs...
Yes, have understand it in German , hehe. Kate Ryan - Je Lance Un Appel. Thanks for the comments . Cheers, friku.
Go through "selfmade" in this forum. I´ve just posted my rig. I know it´s too big to take ideas for your case, but probably some ideas come through your mind to use in your particular case. Cheers, friku.
Well, after posting here for a time, i´ve seen several posts with the same problem: Too much heat in some parts of the rig. This post isn´t intented to be the great solution to all your problems, don´t take it so, above all because I aren´t an "expert" . The only thing I would show is what i´ve done with my rig and the solutions adopted. The modding of this cube started with the necessity of having a larger case, where I could get in the pumps, rads, etc., with the necessary room to manipulate w...
Problems: Eheim600 and the htf3 80... Nothing more as this... Too much W dissipating that the rad couldn´t go with... Cheers, friku.
You´ve got to clean the CPU block every year (or half a year), cause the jets of the tubes go blocked easily. It´s much better only use destilled water and some uncolored additive. Some coloring additives come up with precipitations as the time goes by. The next time you see high temps (in 6 months or so), there are very much probabilities that the block is blocked again. Cheers, friku.
Hm, what cpu cooler are used? XT? If it is so, the reason could be that the Airplex family are too restrictive radiators (~6mm Inner Diameter). The addition of another rad of this type adds more restriction to the circuit and the pump suffers more to go with it. That´s why you couldn´t see better temps. I know, I say always the same things when such problems went up, but I can show you an example... I have a "jet impingement" like block. Have used a low restrictive radiador but large one. High p...
God, sorry! Don´t know where I have read about the MSI board, probably in another thread... Have looked right now in the specs posted by him and nothing about MSI found... :-[ Would be good if we could know what a mobo is mounted. Cheers, friku.
Zitat von »Stefan« 1. a 120 Evo is enough .. no dream temps, but enough 2. the pump is alright no prob with the flow in such a small circuit 3. the position changes nearly nothing at all, because the water temp is balancing within the circuit +- 1 ° C 1. and 3.) Hm, yes, no dream temps, but probably the wanted better performance? 2.) Yes, flowrate would be right, but, what´s up with the pressure drop? I think that a jet block would work/perform better, right? Zitat Die Grafikkarte ist doch gar ...
Zitat von »Katzenfreund« davon inspikiert und von der Tatsache, dass du ja sowieso nachmal verschlauchen willst: Nimm mal die Graka als ersten Kühler im Kreislauf und schau, ob sie immernoch so heiß wird. Right , one option... Cheers, friku.
MBM = Bios temps = not always good/right measures... Best = sensor "on-core" temps... I have a MSI Neo Fis2R mobo and the differences with sensors and Bios temps are frightening: ~15º (and above) differences :-X Cheers, friku.
Hi everyone: Haven´t read the complete thread (sorry for this beforehand :-[). So, only a few ideas about what could happening and the possible solutions (if not indicated yet). A pump like the Eheim600 for a jet like design is a too weak pump, because the pressure drop caused by the block affects the rest of blocks connected to the same circuit. That could explain the extremely high temps in the VGA card. The solutions are basically three: 1.) Substitute the 120 rad, with a double 120 (or tripl...
Tomatensaft, ketchup > Zahnebürste. Cheers, friku.
Many thanks X-Stars for your advices... Have installed the 4.xx version correctly, al works fine... The fans don´t go up at 100% so often as before. This firmware version works a lot better I think. For me reading the install manual in German isn´t a problem, but writing in German is a little bit more difficult... Thanks again, friku.
Thanks for your answer X-stars. Haven´t seen the 4.xx version. Should look better? Thanks, friku.
Resolved: Completely shutdown of computer. Disconected power from PSU. Restart. Reflash with LCD version file. All fine. Sorry for the shocked question. But was afraid that I couldn´t solve the problem. Thanks anyways for reading. Cheers, friku.
Hi everyone: I´ve made a big mistake in flashing. I´ve a lcd version of the aquaero controller, and have flashed the vfd version. Now windows doesn´t recognise me any aquaero conected to usb headers, and nothing is displayed on the aquaero. Fans are on 100% of power every time... How can I solve this problem? How can I reflash the aquaero? Thanks. Cheers, friku.
Lone_Wolf: You could write in German, no problem for me to read. My problem is writing in German Cheers, friku.
Top_Nurse: I´ve kept the center back, and first of each side G1/8". They are for the led and temp. sensor. Cheers, friku.
I´ve had mine working around one complete day for some tests and nothing similar has occured. Here I am for evidence . I think it would be better you let the aluminium alone (with the finish you want to give it) without any type of painting, because the whole case works as a big heatsink. Painting would reduce this effect a little bit (I know, it would be a barely preciable decrease, but I would only write it down). As usual, alone, painted, brushed, etc. belongs to modder creativeness and likin...
Nothing at all. Nice to be helpfull Cheers, friku.
Screws doesn´t look so bad (my personal opinion): Cheers, friku.
Have done something similar some time ago: Some of the threads were changed to G1/4" and there were added 3 more on the other side. Cheers, friku.
Yes, it´s possible. I´ve made an Y cable splitter and have connected 3 12cm. papst fans on one channel, but I think it would be better stay with 2 fans on each channel. Have in mind that you have 5W per channel. Look at the specifications of the fans you have to not overpass this limit. Cheers, friku.
Akula: This is a "hersteller-forum" (Right written?) and I know that foreign "brands" are not well welcome, that´s the reason that I was thinking very much about posting this pic... I see that you´re a moderator of this forums, I hope it would be no problem telling some information about the pump, if Dino or some other person of Aquacomputer consider that this information should not be posted here, he has only to indicate this and I would delete the information that follows. Thanks. Well Akula.....
9>12cm. fans and 3>8cm. fans. 6 of the 12cm. fans are connected on the 2 triple radiators on the top of the case and the other 3 12cm. ones are for system ventilation. The 3 8cm. fans are for cooling the HDD´s. Two separate circuits. First: Aquatube>1rst Pump>CPU>Triple Radiator>Aquatube Second: Aquatube>2nd Pump>Chipset>GPU>Evo360>Aquatube All 12 12cm. fans are going to be connected to the Aquaero, because I was trying to control the 3 system ones through one of the rheobuses you can see on the...
Hm, would try to say it in German... Hier ist meiner (hope, it´s correct..., pics are made during testing) Sorry, bad camera = bad quality: And here placed on the mod I´m now going through. Hard work on polishing still remains, a little bit is yet been done on the down side of the front face, but much more has to be done: Flash: No flash: Still remains to put the Crystalfontz display on and the light on the Aquatube. Probably I would place an MO display too. Cheers, friku.
Using software to measure temps give always bad results, it´s always better using temp probes. Nice to see that the problem has been resolved. Cheers, friku.
Dino: German is no problem, I understand it relatively good. I born in Germany but live now in Spain, my written German is really bad, but I can read it still roughly well. Although your English is good, thanks If you or somebody on the forum would tell me something, don´t worry, make it in German, no problem I think Stiletto has written something that should be made by most of us, first test the rig with different methods (fan situation, tube connection, etc.) and look what is better for our pa...
But, how can this be? If you connect a 2 port manifold or an Y splitter the flow is always splitted in two parts. The outlet tubes of the manifold or Y splitter must be the same Inner diameter, of course. We don´t need pressure in the radiator, we need the pressure on the inlet of the waterblock. I´ve seen that the latest CPU blocks from Aquacomputer are using a jet style design, this need truly high pressure for better performance. The flow in the radiator tubes is better to be low speed and we...
http://www.wc101.com/articles/vs/ A good link to read through. As always, it depends on the selection you´ve made of blocks, radiators and the lenght of tubes. Cheers, friku.
Parallel is better, because the radiators disipate better the heat when the water reaches them relatively hot. If you connect them in the serial way the second line radiator doesn´t disipate all the W power it has. Check it out and post results... hurra: The water comes to the second radiator in the same way as the first one. Don´t know why you are worrying about this... Any problems had with such a connection type before? chawo: Had told you before (in another thread I think) that the "sucking"...
Zitat von »atomfrede« also ich mir auf ebay letzes jahr noch zusätzlich günstig einen 120er evo ersteigert. ich betreibe ihn auch aktiv zusätzlich zum 240er. aber an tempveränderung hat er fast nichst gebracht, ca1 grad, nur hat halt länger gedauert, bis das die temp den endwert erreicht hat! Have you the radiators in parallel or in serial connection? Parallel would be a better choice. Cheers, friku.
Have you checked if there were some bubbles in the watertubes? What kind of fluid are you using? Only distilled water, or with other additive? There are some additives on the shop that reduces the bubbles in the rig (if this is the problem). Cheers, friku.
This "problem" on the radiator wouldn´t decrease the disipation of it, but it could be a problem if your CPU block is restrictive and needs high water pressure. If the CPU block is one of these and the pump hasn´t enough pressure, the final temps in the rig could rise a little bit. However, a lower flow speed through the tubes of the radiator would increase the performance of it, but always if a high pressure pump is conected. Make some tests and post it here... Cheers, friku.
Hi CdMe: Yes, what the previous forum users have told is correct. Look beforehand the tubes for any folds on the tubes and air in them. This could cause a temp rising. Look also if the temp probes haven´t been moved from place in any action taken over the pc case (arranging cables, conecting devices, etc.). Look if the fans on the radiators, the fans in the case are working correctly and if anything is preventing air/liquid circulation. There are other things that could have made such a increase...
Hm, so bigger the radiator is (if it´s a good one, of course), so more the W disipation is, so the temps on the CPU die would be lower. All depends on the CPU block, tube lenght, pump used, etc. too. The radiators used for passive cooling, for example, are very big in comparison for those ones planed to used in an active watercooled rig. So a bigger one always (or at least sometimes, depending on manufacturer [see specifications of W disipated]) would work better (in temperature terms) as a more...
Hi b4LrOn: First of all I want to say something the people here at the forum have mentioned already: The MBM readings and the motherboard sensors aren´t the most precise way to know the temps reached in any part of the watercooled rig. The better way is using some digital display with good temperature sensors that would give you a more accurate reading of the temps in the rig. With 3 radiators and 1 pump you surely have to obtain better results than the ones you´ve posted here. I would give you ...
Hi Chawo: Everything depends on what you´re expecting from your pc temperatures. If your choice is getting higher OC´s, so the conection of another radiator in a paralel circuit would made you have a little gain over the OC you already have now. Some people who want to made a "high end" Watercooling or simply go "oversized" would made this choice also. Don´t expect an incredible improvement over the temps you reach right now and the only way to have a measureable improvement in temps is conectin...
24.04.2024, 17:29
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