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no the 1048 plugs straight into the mains. the aquastream is the only pump with a control board as it is designed to be run off 12v (ie inside your pc!). hope this helps
Zitat von »Stephan« It's FLASH-Meomry - no EEPROM i thought eeprom had a flash chip inside? oh well
Zitat von »Weihnachts-Shoggy« Mr_modnaR, I would say yes ;D Very silent and cheap solution if you want to use the FMJ anyway. cheers, where did you get it (the foam)? ta
shoggy: is the way you showed some time back with the foam, the best way to mount the pump in the fmj? cheers
Zitat 7v's off......... not too bad of a guess then hehe said the disintegrated bomb disposal officer to the ceiling.... ;D
i think those are the other ends of the holes that mount the front plexi to the aluminium!
Nope, as you may notice, it is a red wire
Careful!! the molex connector provides 12V AND 5V!!!! Red wire=5V Yellow wire=12V Also i believe that this light: has a resistor in the circuit too!
Zitat Oh I didn't mean through the same wiring. What I meant was 10 wires going through the same physical cable. 5 each will be dedicated to each USB device. There would be no interaction between the two devices except perhaps magnetic or RF induced, which was the point of my question. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. Yeah it'll be fine! The standard cables you get with, say, a lian li case for the dual usb porst on the front are like this. I think the voltages used for the data lines are so ...
Back in her watercooling days, my old gran used to say: "if conductivity is a problem, just use mercury" ;D
not sure how it actually works (the tubemeter) but i'm assuming it works by connecting pairs of contacts through the conductivity of the water. so i would say no, or very intermittently. hope this helps
Zitat I am wondering if NC = No Connection on Pin 1 below: I think that's correct, as it's a usb connection. Hope this helps
Zitat right now it seems that the block will be black. Zitat The LED on the side will be red oooo yes please! :
i think the aquaero can only read temps for the sensors that are plugged into it. it may also be so that the aquasuite software can display usb temperature sensor's readings, but i am not sure on this one. i would say definately not the ones that are part of the motherboard however, unless you are a genius programmer/hacker ;D hope this helps
i doubt it, i bleeve they are hard wired into the mobo, and you can only take a reading thru software designed to read them. :'(
Be warned tho, it IS larger than most cases, so get it if you don't mind an overhang!! ;D
WOW :o amazing case, just one question: What ratio of ACFluid to orange juice do you use? ;D
i guess with those tabs sticking out they aren't stealth, but the ones you are using have a tab sticking out one side also, that's what is putting me off. hmmm....... maybe something along the lines of these: now i know you said you didn't want to use cable ties, but you can get these with 8mm slots i believe in which you could put 8mm wide cable ties, so they wouldn't really look like cable ties, they'd look more like your cable clamps. the only problem with cable ties is that they are not reus...
i hate to say this given you've already started wiring, but i don't much like those cable clamps you're using, something like this would be more appropriate, more 'stealth' IMHO: course it's just my opinion, plus it could be the photo's throwing me off (like the silicon fan mounts). hope you don't mind constructive criticism. :
:-/ was just quoting many a cliched action film. (the ;D indicated i was joking)
Zitat Now I thought there was a green wire somewhere... STOP!!! don't cut it! it's definately the red one, i read it in the bomb disposal manual. ;D
this is a right angled plug and cool connector, it has two plug and cool connectors on it, each plug and cool connector is for the standard plug and cool tubing, which is 8mm in diameter.
no, not run across it before. aluminium is MUCH higher on the reactivity scale than silver, and copper is somewhere in between, so it should be ok on your waterblocks! try finding a comparison with something more well known first tho.
ok cool, many thanks for your answers! ;D
Zitat sorry, but when you translate "at the weekend i play football" it will be in german "am wochenende spiele ich fussball" and then you translate it correct back to english. "spielte" is past. the same past as "played" the gramatically correct translation of "at the weekend i play football" is "an dem wochenende spiele ich fussball". the shortcut of "an dem" -> "am" is the same like yours "did not" -> "didn't" although MUFFDIVER said spielte instead of spiele, i think his point was that the ...
grrrr but going back to my original question, would using the 1800 passively be better/worse than using a rad specifically designed to be used passively? many thanks in advance!
Zitat Having inspected the Zalman case up close I would say it would work great with an Evo 1800 on the side of it. There are a lot of incompatibilities with that case and many MB's so watercooling would make that one cool case. i didn't mean i wanted that case.... i was just using it as an example of a passive radiator, which i would construct, and place on the outside of my case. comprende? ;D
Ok, i can see my decription was confusing! sorry people! Basically, i thought that a fanless radiator such as on the side of the Zalman Totally No Noise case: would be good, if it had water flowing thru it instead of heat pipes (as in the zalman case). what i was asking was, would my idea above work better than a standard APE without fans? hope that's a little better.... ;D
because of the almost completely different language structures between English and German, different plays on words arise, and they do not translate very well literally. no doubt one of our German friends can give us an example! ;D
@ Top nurse: isn't the cooler you picture the vrm one? @muffdiver: Zitat also Ac and other companys wouldnt benefit if there was such a thing. yeah i agree, i guess that's why we haven't seen one yet, unless top nurse is correct!!
Anyone got any idea whether a radiator specifically designed to be used fanless (i.e. a block of aluminium/copper with fins on it and water passing through it), would be better than one of the AC APEs? for a fanless rad setup of course, not with fans! ;D Thanks in advance!
Anyone know if this is in the pipeline? i mean a universal water cooler for the ram on a graphics card. it would mean you could buy that and a twinplex, and then keep on using them. would be cool, no? ;D
Zitat Actually I think it will be fine as there is at least .050 inch of space between the top of the pump and the FMJ. :-/ oops, i meant between the two halves of the FMJ! if you are just powder coating/black chroming and welding up the outer shell, then it shouldn't be a problem, it's just if there's no give in either part, you may find it difficult to put them back together again!
any photography shop should be able to help you! they use coloured filters on lights and lenses. hope this helps
Zitat This is a temporary setup while I wait for the custom PSU panel that is being made by Lian-Li for me. :o how did you wangle that??!!! (did you offer them free private healthcare for a year? lol) Zitat I will have to have the units welded and ground back down again the only trouble i can see with this method is that there will be no give in the top cover of the fmj, because as you know, it's a tight fit anyway, but with the added powder coating/black chrome, you're going to have to do some...
Zitat so its a piece of crp then? not really, it's totally silent which is good. the only area it falls down on is the power rating, but that depends what cpu, gpu, mobo and accessories you have!
Zitat imo the AC PSU is out dated for most performance pc now days, and as far as i can tell the cooling parts dont enter the psu itself but rather its just a waterblock bolted to the arse end. would be cool if they just released the waterblock on it own so users could just bolt it to the own psu. this isn't possible, there are heat pipes inside this psu that bring the heat to the waterblock, whereas a normal psus have only heatsinks which emit their heat to the air. if you did what you said, y...
Zitat if you make an fix in the software yeah, something like a row of buttons to select what angle/position the tubemeter is in.
i should think it'd work, all the tubemeter is is a row of moisture sensors on a stick, so basically it'll give you a measurement of the water height whichever way up it is, the only problem being that its range of measurement decreases as you move it towards the horizontal plane.
Yeah, what they said ^ ;D lol No, seriously welcome to the forum! Ask ANY question no matter how stupid you think it may be, remember we were all one star at one stage or another, and we're here to help our brethren. (yes yes, and our sistren too top nurse!)
How about making a plate up that would attach to the 80mm fan holes on the rear of the case, and that way you could have the aquastream sitting just above the PSU with the pressure side poking thru the motherboard/psu partition. no real advantage doing it this way apart from making the filling/bleeding go a little easier. :-/ ooo! plus you could make the bracket more like a box, which would hide the aquastream even more! ;D ps fantastic work so far!! edit: ze@lot's idea's better actually. dang ...
Mr modnaR thows in table leg and chainsaw, to make things interesting
well you could measure the single led's current draw, and then calculate what resistor you have to put in to keep it the same for three. (i assume you mean six leds as in three on each channel?)
almost definately, i'd guess analog. if it were PWM, then you'd notice the leds flickering like an old tv set out of the corner of your eye!
Das ist eine sehr gute Idee!! (wow! no Babelfish need this time )
Zitat The real solution will be to make up some Aquastream bases made up out of metal. There is another option: use machine screws with heads that fit in the slots on the aquastream and attach these to a custom made FMJ! just an idea
not sure i like the way the washers are on the aquastream base. surely given that you've gone to so much trouble replacing the rubber anti vibration mounts, you'd have put the correct size on, so that they don't sit off-centre? ps. just being picky i know, so please don't send me to theatre with "amputate both hands" on my card! ;D
would have thought so, i think they are usb devices.
Zitat Isn't the opto-coupler either on or off only? yes i thought that too...