Having fought the tubemeter a lot, I feel able to answer this. Both cables you Identified will power the tubemeter. The first one is the best choice, you might have the connector on backwards at the tubemeter. Pin 1 on the tubemeter is 5vdc power, but it is VERY difficult to identify, You might have it correct if you can get a firmware reading from Aquasuite 2012. As far as getting a reading, go to the overview pages, click on the gear icon for page settings, click on the radio button for allow changes, then click on the overview page again. It should switch back to the main view page with a Circle plus for add in the lower right corner. Click that and select dat source should appear, expand the Aquaero 5, expand level sensors and click tubemeter. and then OK, pick the way you want level displayed. Done. The Aquaero 5 information page is selected from the Information page tab on the left side, click the tab and the right hand side will give two colums of AQ5 information screens. On the left is the list of what is available, the level sensor is under "Other" when you click on the drop down scroll box. Right click and drag the creen for tubemeter over to the right hand side and it will show up on the AQ5. Click the floppy disk icon to save the settings. This is where you get rid of AQ5 display screens you dont want also. Just click the red X on the Displayed screens and it is gone from the AQ5.
For the level alarm, under the Aquaero 5 tab, click Alarm Configuration, on the right hand side click Fill level alarm, select data source at tubemeter, enable alarm, set actions, done. The Old Aquasuite 4.72 will not detect a device on the Aquabus, only for items connected via USB to the motherboard. AS2012 will find it in either place, the settings are the same as described above.
.
You did not say what kind of D5 you have, but it does not really matter. If it is the Aquacomputer version, you connect it to the high speed Aquabus with the second cable you listed, and plug it in to a four pin Molex PSu and done. If it is any other kind, use http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info…roducts_id=2345 and plug it in to any one of the fan controllers and a PSU plug and done. You can use the same adapter cable to plug into a Power Adjust 2. and the PA2 via High speed Aquabus to the AQ5. The PA2 needs to be connected Via USB to flash new firmware and change the device ID, but other than that it can be disconnected from USB.

I dont know if you have the water block for the AQ5 or just the passive heat sink, If you have the water block use the AQ5 for the pump and fans.
If you only have the passive heat sink, go with the PA2. The PA2 can be mounted any place, you dont need the drive bay mount for it. Or get the water block. I think they are about the same cost after the extra fittings. Just dont waste your money on the PA2 Ultra, you dont need it, the standard will work just fine for you.
On the other hand, if your pump has a tacho output, just connect that plug to the AQ5 fan header of your choice, and plug the D5 power into the PSU. Then you will have a constant speed pump with monitoring from the AQ5 and no extra wires required. The pump will run at max speed though, unless it is one of the kind with a speed selector dial on it.
I would put the tubemeter on the Aquabus. Simpler.
When I can afford it, I intend to get a mps 40 and bork my tubemeter deliberatly. I drive a semi and I am just LOOKing to run over something!

Waiting for new parts of the TOY is common in this class of PLAY Time. I just called in sick so I could get my latest shipment.
Good thing I am self Employed, my boss really is easy to fool! (She who must be obeyed is something else again ) It is a good thing I listed to Dad and spent more money on a good couch than I did on the bed!
Ok, seriously, sounds to me like you are past the hump of the learning curve.
.
Two things to remind you about,
#1, when you install everything, remember to have the PA2 connected to USB on first startup, You can pull the USB wire after you flash the PA2 to the latest firmware which is inside AS2012 b16, or whatever the version is when you get the new toys. Dont worry about the pump. In fact, if possiable flash the PA2 BEFORE you tear the old system apart, then install it to the High Speed Aquabus with a three wire cable. Also, when you have the PA2 on the USB, check and make sure the PA2 startboost function is turned OFF.( I have heard that you can do this through AQB now, but why take the chance?) Unfortunatly, I dont know exactly how to do that, but it should be fairly easy to figure out. You will then be able to use "Start Boost" from AS2012 without having any conflicts between the PA2 and AQ5. Just leave the PA2 ID number at the default since you only have One of them, (For now ) In fact, now that I think about it, connecting the PA2 to USB, (and PSU) before you take things apart is really good idea. Nobody has talked about it, but I suspect that when you connect the PA2 to USB it will show up as a sperate item on AS2012, but if it does not, just connect a fan or themo sensor to the PA2 as a temporary measure until you get the thing re programed. Once the PA2 is connected by AQB, it positivly will not show up until a temp sensor of the pump are connected, and then it shows up as an extra fan. Just rename it PUMP and play!
.
#2, be ready with a spare small air fan when you get going with the new parts. I am 100% sure the AQ5 can handle the heat load from the small number of fans you are connecting to it, but IF the case has no air flow up there in the corner, you Might need to put a tiny fan up there to give it fresh air. Don't worry about it, the AQ5 will just run the fans at 100% if it gets too hot until it gets a chance to cool off. Remember, a fan running at 25% heats up the AQ5 a LOT more than a fan running at 100%
Have fun!

COOL!

Just tell the bank manager to go talk to SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED and get back to you later. She will spend so much talking to the mirror she will forget about your new toys.

As I understand the current AS2012 the pumps tab is only for the Aquastreams. I have the AC D5 connected via USB and AQB, no change. Yours will show up in the fans section, just rename it pump and forget about it.

.

Now for your open question.

Yes and No. The fan/pump speed is not calculated at all. It is adjusted as temperature changes based on the controller you set up. I use CPU outlet temp to control the CPU rad, and Radiator inlet temp to control the main radiator fans.

First, I am a Mechanical engineer with 20 years experiance in Thermodynamics. While each of the things you mention can be true in a specific situation, the actual Laws of Thermodynamics are that Q=mcp(T1-T2) and Q=UA (T1-T2) (The greek letters dont work in ASCI) Bottom line, Faster flow of air or collant means faster heat removal rates. For computers, if you change pump flow from 50lph to 100lph, you get twice the amount of heat removed. Period. That does not mean that readiator outlet temp is cut in half. In fact, in some conditions, it may in fact go up a tad. But not really. Coolant residance time in the fins is B.S. Unles we are talking about pump cavitationa and vortexes in tubes, and laminar vs turbulent flow (Which is part of the U in the second equation)

.

With a WC computer the heat loads are so small compared to measurement errors that the equations are foolish. They are a lot of fun, but really dont reflect actual thermodynamic facts. What we need to consider in computers is NOISE and not frying the chips during max loads, either games or benchmarks.

.

I sugest you set up the pump(fan 5) as the output of a curve controller with CPU outlet or radiator inlet or radiator outlet as the sensor.Run the computer for 30 minutes at idle, no load situation with pump and fans at minimum. Record the temperatures. Then max out the computer , graphics benchmarks, cpu benchmarks or games, or video editing, whatever the highest useage is and run that for 30 minutes and record the temps with pumps and fans at minimum, and then max out the pumps and fans for anouther 30 min and record those temps. Use the numbers from the second run to set your alarms, ie highest load, minimum cooling. Use the other two as starting and ending points for pump and fan curves.

.

Personally, I have the pump running at 50% minimum with fans at 30%, then the pump ramps up to about 75% before the fans reach 50%, the pump goes 100% before the fans reach 75%, and then the fans max out after that.

.

Personally, the most fun with the Aquasuite and Aquaero 5 is playing with the control curves aand running tests to see how it works out. Mine is a little more complicated because I have a single 120mm radiator between the CPU block and my dual SLI GPU cards, then MB, RAM and AQ5 blocks to a tripple 120mm radiator. Plus I have two fans cooling the HDDs, all six of them, and one more as a case exhaust fan. I have the fans pulling air into the case to maintain positive pressure inside the case to reduce dust buildup, which means my case ambient temp is equal to the radiator air outlet temps, which is why I have WC on RAM and MB. I lost a bit of air flow through the radiators doing it this way, but the dust problem is gone. So I am Happy. At MAX load, my UPS reports 650 watts of power usage, and the AQ5 reports change between 300 and 800 watts.

.

Go ahead and run the three base line test, and then have fun! You can manually adjust the points on the curve controller to arrive at the old high school bell curve if you want. Just click on the red dot on the curve and move it.



Enjoy!



Larry

Just making a point, not a debate. Radiator residence time is very important for any water cooling system, from your car to your computer (eg, just remove the thermostat from your car radiator and see what happens). For my system, using a Cuplex HF and 2x7970 waterblocks, increasing flow from 40l/h to 80 l/h really didn't do very much, maybe 1 degree or so. Just saying...

Removing the thermostat from a car does not affect radiator 'residence time', what it does is reduce backpressure on the coolant pump to the point the pump starts to cavitate, and INCREASES flow thru the radiator. This results in MORE heat removed, thus lower coolant temperatures. Remember, the thermostat is in place to Maintain the engine at a design temp, and the radiator size and air flow are intended to maintain that temp even in Reno at 105F. 99% of the time a car is operating, the thermostate is only 10 to 30% open.



Sorry, but this urban myth is a sore point with me. It is totally wrong.



Also, at the level of heat removal and flows we have in the home PC market, the accuracy of the instruments, flow and temperature, are not anything like accurate enough. Set your AQ5 to calculate power usage for the CPU, it will calculate a differential temperature, muliply it by flow, and apply a specific heat capacity correction factor. A typical CPU worthy of water cooling is rated at 125 watts of heat dissipation. If you watch the power (heat) calculation on the AQ5 it will go from 60 to 180 watts with only a .1 or .2 degree change in temperatures, or a.1 unit change in flow. This is not a function of the thermodynamics, it is a function of the measurement precision and accuracy.



Part of the problem with this discussion is that the average person does not know the difference between HEAT and TEMPERATURE. One Brittish Thermal Unit of heat is defined as that amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1 degree Farenheight. Also, it takes around 1,000 BTU to melt one pound of ice and turn it into one pound of water at 32F.



In the example you gave, I am willing to bet the temperature differnce between inlet and out of your radiator averages 2. to 3.5 Degrees C under normal maximum load. If outlet temp is 40C at 40l/h, then going to 80l/h would reduce radiator outlet temp to about 39C, this results in more of a temperature differnce between CPU core temps and the water block surface, which will result in more rapid heat transfer and lower the CPU core temp by about 3 to 6C. Which is the ultimate use of water cooling on a computer, Keeping CPU and GPU temps as low as possiable without making a lot of noise from 747 size air fans. So get Open hardware monitor or AIDA64 fired up on your machine and repeate your test. Mark CPU Core and Die temps at 40 l/h and then again at 80 l/h. Allow 30 minutes for temps to stabalize and keep the same CPU load. I expect your CPU temps to be 5 to 10 degrees C lower with the higher flow.



Sorry, but you punched a button of mine.

Whoa, guess i did. Like I said, not debating... Empirical data... Amazing thing it is. A few years ago I did the thermostat (actually a flow restrict or to slow coolant flow) thing with my 502 side oiler and engine temp and oil temp were up over 10 degrees running at Dover at above 160 for 30 min. My engine guys had some choice words that day.

Anyway, you are right that the power calc is inherently inaccurate/imprecise and not comparable between WC loops. My 2700k draws/emits 122-128 watts with open hardware monitor, HW64' realtemp(or is it coretemp) aid64 etc - sure I have them. 2x7970's def draw more than the 160 watt difference to the 280 watts i see in BF3 so, yes power calc in AQ 2012 is only an eternally comparable figure for a given water loop.
Cheers.