I've been running one of my AC6 XTs on a 4-pin USB header for a while with no issues. I can't say I've run into anything where it comes in handy with regards to over current protection.

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I've been running one of my AC6 XTs on a 4-pin USB header for a while with no issues. I can't say I've run into anything where it comes in handy with regards to over current protection.

Thanks for info, man, i gotta tell, soldering the cable to the USB connector is a b***, i barely managed to do it. The usb cable was to thick and i couldnt pop the connector together but i wrapped it in heatshrink and you cant see it. It took me about 2 and a half to 3 hour to make a single cable.



Only 10 more to go !

Looks good
I logged on today to figure out any advantage to be using both USB and the Aquabus connector... any cons or pros aside from the extra cabling?

One thing to be aware of when making custom USB cables is the shielding which might or might not be important to you.
All internal usb-wires are shielding as they do make a lot of "noise". Depending on your sound solution this might be a problem to you - can be experienced as lots of noise/static.

I have seen sleeving/braiding that should have shielding properties, so I guess they might be a good place to start if making your own USB cables.

I use onboard sound and have had some issues with the sound and custom USB cables. Went back to some thick insolated cables and the static went away.

Edit: the last pin is just an extra ground. No way you are going to carry enough amperage to need that in any way.

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Edit: the last pin is just an extra ground. No way you are going to carry enough amperage to need that in any way.

That last line of mine is plain wrong. It must have been a brain fart or something as I just wrote what it really was above it.

The last pin (pin 5) in usb IS the shielding/common ground. I havn't read up on exactly how it Works, but it sure helps my onboard sound from making odd noises.

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Oh, the last pin is the shielding itself of the USB cable ?
How in gods Name is one going to crimp that.

I saw something like this when i cut out the micro USB cables, but took it out and crimped only 4 wires.

I used MicroUSb cables and cut them to length. And crimped the end. But i end up with only 4 wires crimped. I believe it should be enough for the cables to work.

I thought the shielding in the USB cable works just by beeing there, i never realized it had to be connected to the 5th pin.
Does it work if ist not connected to the 5th pin ?

For instance the cable i have, has an outer aluminum shielding, and inside are 4 isolated wires, and a bare 5th wire, i belive this would be the 5th wire of the 5th pin Connection Slot.
But i cut it out, this 5th wire.
Dont tell that i had better crimped this one as well !

I'm not enough of an electrician to tell about ways to circumvent it, except one way (to circumvent using shield): buy sleeve with shielding properties:
Conductive Braiding http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/Conductive_Braiding.html (I havn't bought this, as it is expensive to buy just 1 item and have it shipped over)

It's important to remember that the shield is not to shield the USB cable, but to shield everything else from the USB cable - Maybe someone at Aquacomputer can tell us wheter the USB cables used for their devices are particularily noisy, or if we can do without the shielding.

It might not be necessary at all. Was much worse a decade or two ago, but I have had issues with onboard sound and EMI noise.

How I did it:
I redid the shielding like this - I'm sure it can be made in a neater way - I also havn't measured it with some measurement-tool, as I don't have any that can do it.
(I did tidy up the solderings before putting on heatshrink)(


Putting heatshrink over the foil-shield to keep it in place, and to insolate it from the mesh