I agree that those 4-pin (3-pins used) ARGB connectors are the WORST, but unfortunately then are the closest thing to a "standard" there is. They suck so bad that EK sells a EK-Loop that wraps around an ARGB inline connection and holds them together. This will not solve your problem with the FW360. I think the problem is that the thickness of the contact pins varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. There are lots of complaints about ARGB cables falling out of the Razer Chroma controllers for this exact reason.

Regarding RGBpx adapters, Aquacomputer has the #53285 and the #53282.#53285 is female. #53282 is male. You need the #53282 to connect a 3rd party device with a "standard" ARGB connector to an RGBpx port.The #53285 is for connecting an Aquacomputer LED strip (or whatever) to a "standard" ARGB port on a mobo or controller.

Fans - You did not specify what fans you have. The "standard" 4-pin (3-pins used) connector is required because that is what mobo manufacturers use for ARGB ports. ARGB only requires 3 conductors, so the fan manufacturer probably decided to just use a 3-pin connector to jump from fan to fan.

Daisy Chaining LEDs - Yes you will still have individual LED control, within the limits of the Aquasuite RGBpx presets. The stated maximum is 90 LEDs per RGBpx port.

Yes ARGB in computers is a total mess, and the "standard" ARGB connector is the absolute WORST choice. I am not sure where it started. The 4-pin version (with all 4 pins used) is the "standard" for 12VDC LEDs and I think someone (maybe MSI who calls this connector a "J-Rainbow" connector) decided to stick with it but just remove the 4th contact. There is nothing preventing you from plugging a 5VDC ARGB connector into a 12VDC connector, which will fry the 5VDC ARGB LEDs. Many people have done this.

for those shitty argb connectors that slide out, i use a rgbpx cable with an adapter (53282) to connect to said shitty argb, and an EK strap to secure the connector together. you can use anything to secure the cables really, gorilla tape, whatever

What i'm planning to do when i'll redo my cable management is to just cut those crap connectors and get some extra RGBPX cables.. cut them, solder them in place and only use RGBPX to connect to the FW360..


Regarding 4 pins ARGB fans, it could be similar to Corsair. they have data in AND out, to link fans together as if they were a series of strips, instead of being linked in parallel, and repeat all the same effect.

In the end you only care about that 3 pin cable that goes to the FW360
And all my argb connectors except one fit snugly on the FW360. I think there's just too many suppliers, and not standard pin diameter so.. some are tight, some are loose.. either way, it's non locking, so it's utter crap... but it's the most common..

damn i forgot that too lol
yea they are recessed to squeeze the male/male adapters that come with some devices, but that lip is useless when using a controller; I also did cut them, otherwise, no luck! good catch.

Well it's not Aquacomputer's fault that the shitty connector got adopted as the "standard". And you have to give them credit for going out and finding a much better alternative. The RGBpx connector is a Molex Pico-Blade. The RGBpx cables are kind of expensive from Aquacomputer. You can buy the Pre-Made jumpers or even assembled 4-conductor cables but I think the Aquacomputer pinout is different than the standard Pico-Blade cable. If you are interested I will dig up the exact part numbers.

The good thing about the RGBpx connector is that it is small enough to fit on an LED strip and small devices like the FW360. They are delicate so you need to be careful when you plug them in. Once they are seated they are pretty snug. The FW360 used to only have RGBpx connectors. They added the "standard" connectors fairly recently. I attached a picture of the old version. At least now they give you the option of plugging a "standard" connector directly into the FW360. I agree with Remayz that the best way is to plug the shit connector into a #53282 adapter and use the EK-Loop (or tape or a tie-wrap) to hold them together. Then use an RGBpx cable to get from the #53282 adapter to the RGBpx port on the FW360. It's kind of convoluted (and costs more) but they won't fall apart on you. That is exactly what I am doing to get the ARGB cable from my Fractal AIO pump into my FW360. It works.

I have read posts from other who cut back part of the boot on the shit connector. I think it was Razer Chroma that had the same problem of the shit connectors just falling out or the boot was interfering with the slot in the controller body. I still don't know what the shit connector actually is. I know MSI calls it "J-Rainbow" but I don't think that is the "real" name. Maybe they don't have a real name because they suck so bad.

Citation de "WaterBoy61"

I can`t believe the standards for ARGB connections. More accurately, the lack of standards.It is a ridiculous mess when trying to make these connections. WHY cannot manufacturers make the cables longer for fans and lighting? WHY cannot AC make the pins on the FW360 longer? The cables will not stay in. They easily just fall right out of the board with the slightest movement of the cables. They will not stay plugged in! I can barely feel them sliding in on the pins. Do I now have to spend more to get AC`s adapter`s that convert them to RGBpx? .

RGB light strips can be daisy-chained~
Using the FW360 with a loop of 90 LEDs, you can distribute six LED strips with 15 LEDs per strip. The four circuits can control a total of 360 LEDs in 24 light strips.
IIn AQS each LED can be controlled individually. I stick the light strip on the back of the screen to use the ambient lighting effect!

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for external use, you can also have a look at the farbwerk nano with external USB
it's basically a one channel farbwerk (a farbwerk 90?) with the size of a dime. I have one running the desk lighting, very handy and not too expensive