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pneuma

Junior Member

How do I set up profiles on the farbwerk nano and 360? Im totally lost it isnt like setting up profiles on any other of aquacomputers products.

Wednesday, September 22nd 2021, 10:05pm

Kind of lost I figured it out for everything else as I own a ton of aquacomputer products. The nano and the 360 on the other hand is a bit confusing b/c I'm not sure how to set the profiles up? I change colors I go into profiles select a profile then go back to RGBpx the led and select which profile I want the 1234 profile selection next to the strip itself? Not sure how to get it to actually save each individual color profile is there some step I'm missing here? Thanks in advance?

Grestorn

Senior Member

Thursday, September 23rd 2021, 2:39pm

In contrast to all other products, you have to use the checkboxes shown on the RGB controller definition (where you define the effects) in which profile the current controller should be active.

I.e. you can chose to have any combination of controllers active or deactive in any of the profiles, which gives you an amazing flexibility.

Let us know if you have problems figuring this out, and I'll provide screenshots. Or you look into the manual :)
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Thursday, September 23rd 2021, 6:15pm

Wow! That is a LOT of Aquacomputer hardware! I can't tell if your screen shot is showing everything but if it is I see 4 x FW-Nano, 6 x FW-360, and 1 x FW-USB (I think). Then an Octo and 2 x Aquaero. I have to wonder - how many fans and LEDs are in this rig?

pneuma

Junior Member

Thursday, September 23rd 2021, 7:32pm

Wow! That is a LOT of Aquacomputer hardware! I can't tell if your screen shot is showing everything but if it is I see 4 x FW-Nano, 6 x FW-360, and 1 x FW-USB (I think). Then an Octo and 2 x Aquaero. I have to wonder - how many fans and LEDs are in this rig?

Yes it is lol! Was not easy to get it all to connect and stay connected either. Everything had to be converted to gold pins! Every single usb 9 pin cable had to be a thicker gauge and have gold pins. I made my own 9 pin extension cable using absurdly thick 5 core cable lol and gold pins. That combination with Nzxt's v2 usb hubs work great. They are absolutely the best usb hub with pcb controller on board I've ever seen. Also if you plug something in wrong it just kills the system for safety reasons so it doesn't burn your pc down, which when you're dealing with as many devices plugged in as I am, its deifnitely a good think to have lol. Only side effect i've seen is occassionally my Bluetooth will disconnect and reconnect randomly and this only happens on windows11 also. During a 10-hour gaming session, it may happen twice. Lasts less than a second so doesn't really bother me. Also I have 2 of the hubs plugged into a sata power switch b/c they dont always need to have an active usb connection unless I'm chaning profiles or something like that so I wired them all up to a sata switch. Which i only flip if the system is turned off. Works very well and I only have the 360's and nano's plugged into that hub. My main issue was the led fans are QL fans which have a crap ton of led's. I currently run 2x 1 nano. So for every 2 fans they run off their own nano. The rest is for well I'll just take a picture.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wlt23hp…iew?usp=sharing
Currently, one 360 is not in use not b/c I dont use it but b/c I removed some of the phantek led strips to put others in that I'm modifying and dying the silicon black on a pair of other ones I have that are similar but better looking. The first one came out great but they aren't in yet. You'd be surprised how many 360's it takes to power a decently complex setup. Obviously, I'm not using every channel on every single one of them. 3 of them are literally just for placement. Basically having them gave me the ability to remove alot of cables that were unnecessary. Giving me pockets to mounts these all of them are mounted on the rear and coldzero.eu made me several plates they are all mounted to! It doesn't look its best right now but I was moving stuff around last night looking to fix my leakshield leak which I sort of did I lowered the amount so much that its imperceptible on the graph even set to a .05 second update. Yet this hasnt solved my alarm from going off so I just disabled the dang alarm I don't understand it.
In contrast to all other products, you have to use the checkboxes shown on the RGB controller definition (where you define the effects) in which profile the current controller should be active.

I.e. you can chose to have any combination of controllers active or deactive in any of the profiles, which gives you an amazing flexibility.

Let us know if you have problems figuring this out, and I'll provide screenshots. Or you look into the manual :)


Ok I'm trying this right now I want at least 2 profiles. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Stmdbga…iew?usp=sharing whats the order I go in to do this? I've read the instruction manual front to back and it does not go into detail about profile setup. I know it has to do with the checkboxes I figured that to begin with. I just don't know how exactly. Ok, so my first profile is the picture I just shared above. Do I select both 1 and 2 checkboxes b/c I want 2 profiles or do I just select the number 1 checkbox? How does this work exactly and how do i save it? Do I do it one profile at a time? or set them all up at once is really my quesiton? how does this process work b/c obviously there is some kind of process to it. You create the profile then save it in profiles somehow I'm assuming? I've also noticed it auto saves itself as soon as you changed something like most of them do but that basically means they have to be done one a time, im guessing?

I also managed to fix my leakshield I think It looks rock solid from this screenshot the dips are me releasing the leakshield. This is using 2x next d5's at 40%. Granted we went from 48.6 gph to 28.5gph to get it to actually work correctly. I'm sure I could pump the pumps up a tad bit more and hold it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RHrQyjN…iew?usp=sharing

This post has been edited 8 times, last edit by "pneuma" (Sep 23rd 2021, 10:27pm)

Grestorn

Senior Member

Thursday, September 23rd 2021, 11:15pm

Look at that screenshot of my Farbwerk 360 setup. See the colored boxes on each line (I've marked them)? They show which profile the respective controller is assigned to:
Screenshot 2021-09-23 231052.jpg

That means, if you activate profile 1 (blue), only controller 5 (the bottom one) and Controller 4 (the top one) are active.
In profile 2 (red) controller 3 and 4 are active and with profile 3 (green) controller 13 and 4 are active. With profile 4, ONLY controller 4 is active.

You can set which profile a controller is using with these checkbuttons:
Screenshot 2021-09-23 231145.jpg

Hope that helps!
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Friday, September 24th 2021, 1:21am

WOW. That is a seriously dense build. Also wow on the custom hard tube runs. Eiher you are an expert at bending tubing or you must have a dumpster full of mistakes!. I would love to see some pics of your custom wiring.

I am curious why you felt it was necessary to upgrade all of your USB wiring to gold pins and heavier gauge wire. Definitely an improvement over the "regular" cables, and you can cut to perfect length, but why a necessity? With that many devices and LEDs, I would be concerned about overloading the PSU +12VDC SATA power rail and maybe the+5VDC and +3.3VDC rails, but no particular USB cable should have excessive current flowing through it. I am also curious about the SATA power switch. So you remove SATA power from the USB hubs that have the Farbwerks plugged into them? So the Farbwerks are powered (via 4-pin Molex) but their USB connection to Aquasuite is normally disabled? They would still function but any RGB preset that is based on a temperature or any other sensor not local to the Farbwerk would not work properly, as this data comes from Aquasuite over USB. What is the advantage of removing power from the USB hubs that connect the Farbwerks?

Profiles - What Grestorn posted is correct but there is another level of profiles. The profiles you assign for each LED controller you set up in the Farbwerk RGBpx tab are local to that Farbwerk. There are also 4 Global Profiles. The tab for these is in the Playground section. In Playground, Global Profiles tab, you can assign local profiles for specific devices (Farbwerk, Octo, etc) to any or all of the 4 Global profiles. You can also assign which Overview Page will be displayed when a Global Profile is loaded. In my straightforward case, I have an Octo and 2 Farbwerk360s. I made local profiles for each of them. Then in Global Profiles, I have Global Profile 1 setup to load FW360-1 profile 1, FW360-2 profile 1, Octo profile 1, and a custom Overview Page I made. Global Profiles 2, 3, and 4 are set up the same way, with each loading the corresponding local profiles from all of my devices. It doesn't have to be setup that way. Global Profile 1 could load Farbwerk-1 local profile 4 if I wanted. When you switch profiles in the Playground Global Profiles tab, the Task Bar, or by using the little profile icon at the top right of any Aquasuite page, you are switching Global Profiles.

Note that the Profile tab in the Farbwerk section will switch the FW local profiles - not the Global Profiles. Same for the Octo and I assume all other AC devices that have profiles. The Global profiles are accessed from the Playground section, or the task bar switcher, or the little profile icon at the top of the Aquasuite page. If you start switching local profiles around, things can get confusing.

Remayz

Full Member

Friday, September 24th 2021, 2:14am

There's literally no power draw from the USB headers :P only enough to power the board logic. all the heavy current draw is on the molex or SATA cables.
Also, using unshielded cables can lead to some.. interesting results, but these are not really high speed devices so i guess it works?

if the FW360 pull too much current on RGB, they will shutdown and latch the affected port(s) off until the next reboot WAY before cable heating becomes an issue. Aquasuite displays a warning message if it happens.
But again, there's no significant power draw on the USB headers but only on the SATA and molex 5V, if you get too enthusiast with white lighting.

As for the sata switch, i don't see the point either. Given how many devices you have connected, does it reduce the idle CPU usage while Aquasuite runs?

pneuma

Junior Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 5:44am

Look at that screenshot of my Farbwerk 360 setup. See the colored boxes on each line (I've marked them)? They show which profile the respective controller is assigned to:
[attach]8779[/attach]

That means, if you activate profile 1 (blue), only controller 5 (the bottom one) and Controller 4 (the top one) are active.
In profile 2 (red) controller 3 and 4 are active and with profile 3 (green) controller 13 and 4 are active. With profile 4, ONLY controller 4 is active.

You can set which profile a controller is using with these checkbuttons:
[attach]8780[/attach]

Hope that helps!

Thank you so much I got the 360 figured out that ss and selecting the checkboxes changing profiles basically set it straight for me. I thought selecting profiles you had to go into profiles and click on one that makes it a bit easier. Now I just do the nano the same way and add more leds to the same rgbpx1 and select certain checkboxes for those leds. Got it thankyou so much!

pneuma

Junior Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 5:48am

There's literally no power draw from the USB headers :P only enough to power the board logic. all the heavy current draw is on the molex or SATA cables.
Also, using unshielded cables can lead to some.. interesting results, but these are not really high speed devices so i guess it works?

if the FW360 pull too much current on RGB, they will shutdown and latch the affected port(s) off until the next reboot WAY before cable heating becomes an issue. Aquasuite displays a warning message if it happens.
But again, there's no significant power draw on the USB headers but only on the SATA and molex 5V, if you get too enthusiast with white lighting.

As for the sata switch, i don't see the point either. Given how many devices you have connected, does it reduce the idle CPU usage while Aquasuite runs?


Very true but that still doesnt mean that the motherboard will keep 20 devices connected all at the same time. Oh and also nano's do draw power thats how they work is off a 5v usb connection. So granted not alot but still when you have 5 or 6 of them it stacks up...I am using shielded 5 core cable each cable is wrapped in aluminum casing inside of the rubber wrapping and all are done in gold pins, otherwise they kept disconnecting constantly! All true 9 pin connections though not always necessary I still used 2 cables of 5 core for the hubs. And I absolutely will show pictures of my wiring job it's quite extensive and was damn near impossible to pack it all in the rear of a view71 case. There is only about maybe 2 inches of depth space in the rear. Its not an 011 granted I wish it was lol!
The tube bending is all done on a barrowich jig off ali express there are 3 models of jigs. I have the 3 layer v2 plastic one(cheaper but works great) No need to spend 50 more $ on an aluminum one. Granted even the jigs can be very fussy and you have to get good at using the jig and knowing when the tube is soft enough to put it in the jig to get the results you see. This is my second go-around basically what you see now with the satin tubing is my v2. Originally I used xspc 14mm clear petg. What's on here now is corsair acrylic 14mm.
Again @Grestorn Thank you so much dude fixed all my profiles up tonight and they are working amazingly. The order of the process is what had me confused, got it all straightened out now. I will share my build pics soon I gotta put it up on Reddit also which I haven't done yet either, funny b/c the build has almost taken me a full year to complete. Mostly waiting for stuff from Germany and Spain and Slovenia during the pandemic. Also lots of custom acrylic work by coldzero.eu. In the pic above you see the psu shroud they made me but they also did the rear door which is sick and rocks several logos Aquacomputer being one of them! Heres the rear door

Ok took me a while to get the second d5 of mine to take a profile I literally had to factory reset it before it would take. It eventually did so all my rgb woes are solved thankyou guys youve been awesome. I'll post more detailed pics of the build in a post below.

One last issue I noticed hwinfo reads temperatures wrong inside of aquasuite? I have the paid version of it and memory sharing it on so it shares its data I'm not really sure what the issue is I'm gonna try on their forums as well and see if there is a solution. My temps are reading like a hundred degrees over their real values. Weird part hwinfo itself is reading everything perfectly find and giving real values its aquasuite thats seeing the wrong values which has got me a bit confused? Maybe someone has the solution or I'll start a new thread about it maybe? heres a ss exmaple of what I mean. Shows some outrageous value the aquasuite service does when reading hwinfo if you look at the status bar I'm hovering over the real value.

This post has been edited 11 times, last edit by "pneuma" (Sep 25th 2021, 7:58am)

Remayz

Full Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 5:43pm

As long as the Nanos are connected to the NZXT hubs they will draw no power from the motherboard header. And USB2 supports over a hundred devices per port, so 20 isn't that much, as long as you have enough bandwidth, but these controllers don't take much.
Now, if you switch the SATA power to the hubs, that may be an issue ^^'

It's possible with such a busy build that they were suffering from crosstalk from other cables. Maybe the shielding did more good than the thicker gauge actually.
I only have one Nano that i use externally, so i have no idea what having its coiled cable in the case would do

Also, there's an option in aquasuite to increase the Nanos power draw to 2A, to allow for brighter lighting. If they are indeed on the powered hubs, you can enable that to get some extra brightness on the QLs :)

pneuma

Junior Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 7:01pm

As long as the Nanos are connected to the NZXT hubs they will draw no power from the motherboard header. And USB2 supports over a hundred devices per port, so 20 isn't that much, as long as you have enough bandwidth, but these controllers don't take much.
Now, if you switch the SATA power to the hubs, that may be an issue ^^'

It's possible with such a busy build that they were suffering from crosstalk from other cables. Maybe the shielding did more good than the thicker gauge actually.
I only have one Nano that i use externally, so i have no idea what having its coiled cable in the case would do

Also, there's an option in aquasuite to increase the Nanos power draw to 2A, to allow for brighter lighting. If they are indeed on the powered hubs, you can enable that to get some extra brightness on the QLs :)


Ok the line about motherboards accepting a hundred usb devices? WHERE WHAT MOTHERBOARD? YOU SHOW ME THE MOTHERBOARD? I've tried three motherboards 2 of them had different USB controllers all from major manufacturers all x299 chipset as I'm on an i9-10980xe. The most USB devices I could get to stay connected was 16. The only motherboard I've been able to do more on was the asus prime x299 deluxe ii motherboard which maxes out at 22 usb connections. The EVGA Motherboard maxed out at 20 usb devices but was the most stable out of three. They start to drop if you try to plug anymore in... So I've done all the testing and troubleshooting and what you said is absolutely wrong! I'd like to see someone else try and get 20 devices connected all at the same time with absolutely no drops, ever of usb devices. First, if you don't have gold pins on the wires they are going to drop constantly and i'm not talking 16 devices here I'm talking maybe 5-10 devices max without gold pins. I've been working on this for a year and your talking like I just started yesterday, which is absolutely not the case. Granted I never did test the Nanos to see what their power draw is, I'm assuming 5v as that's what USB puts out as an industry standard. Granted if you check in aquasuite USB connections actually can put out more, which gives you the option with Nanos to do that in aquasuite. I'll bust out the multimeter and we can see what they are really drawing? They have to be drawing some kind of power as they wouldn't be able to light up the LEDs without power! Granted the nzxt hubs are powered so they can draw power from that. Regardless they are still utilizing a USB connection which is the real problem not power draw! I have a dark power pro 12 1500 watt I'm not really concerned with power draw as much as I am with USB signals themselves. Which are very touchy when you start stacking as many as I have. If this wasn't a crazy problem I wouldn't bring it up. I even got in an argument over on Tom's hardware b/c they claimed there was no such thing as a USB bottleneck which is not true. I've created one so saying they don't exist is nonsense. Granted I've tried to correct everything that could be causing which made the number of 9 pin devices I could connect almost double. And for every aquacomputer device, I utilize 2 on one channel as most of us know only 4 pins + grnd are actually necessary for the usb connection so they all work that way. Granted this is strictly 9 pin or 5 pin (same thing) devices that I've noticed the problem with. I've never tried to plug 20 regular USB devices into one machine. I don't even think I have that many standard USB devices lol.
Sorry I don't mean to be hostile or rude in any way I've just been trying to overcome this problem for almost a year now and I've researched the subject like crazy and I've found very little on the subject. I've also asked on several tech forums, to try and get a better understanding of what's going on.

I only went with a slightly thicker gauge b/c the original 5 core I had was unshielded the ticker gauge stuff is shielded but the wires individually were 1 gauge down from the previous cabling I had which is actually corsair 5 core cable. The stuff I bought that's better I bought from moddiy they hooked it up actually cable just seems to be a better quality the wrapping and sheathing on the wires is rubber and not plastic. I replaced every single 5 pin that aquasuite uses with this and all the main hub connector cables are also using this new cable. Since the change, I've had zero drops. But I've also noticed that I can literally not connect anymore USB 9 pin devices. It has no problem dealing with more USB 3.0 devices or even 2.0 devices as long as they are plugged into a standard USB port. So I've been able to use those if I want as I have a 9 pin to standard usb adapter I just haven't b/c I want to figure out the 9 pin problem before I start using up my regular USB ports which most of are being used anyway. It's very frustrating b/c everyone thinks USB connections should be limitless but in my experience, this is not the case. I'm just wondering what else can I do to fix it? If it is crosstalking even though the cables are shielded how do I shield the cables further? I've gotten pretty good at making cables of all kinds so if I can mod these cables to be better or get better cabling from somewhere that would be ideal? I just can't seem to find anything that can even match what I have let alone a better product?
I was also wondering what aquacomputers record for is when connecting as many of their devices as they can to one machine? I'm assuming someone had to have done this for testing purposes at some point?

Also, something else I've noticed that's very strange I also have an older nzxt v1 9 pin hub connected and if I plug anything into that it doesn't work? very strange so I bought another v2 which weirdly works. So something is going on there also. Not sure what, as I've tried connecting it with different cables etc I figured it must have to do with it having an older USB controller onboard?

This post has been edited 24 times, last edit by "pneuma" (Sep 25th 2021, 7:47pm)

Grestorn

Senior Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 7:45pm

In theory, with USB hubs, you should be able to connect an almost unlimited amount of devices to a PC. But the more hubs you stack, the more unstable (and slower) the USB devices will become.

To get an idea how much your USB stack is already cascaded, you could look at the Device Manager and switch to the connection view. Because many devices already come with internal hubs - and the Mainboard itself is also using logical hubs to multiply the number of USB connections.

Since I've neglected to say it before: Your build is truly amazing. I'm humbled by what you did there.
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Acer Predator x27 - Thermaltake Core P5 - Corsair 850W PSU
-> Bilder und weitere Details <-

pneuma

Junior Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 7:56pm

In theory, with USB hubs, you should be able to connect an almost unlimited amount of devices to a PC. But the more hubs you stack, the more unstable (and slower) the USB devices will become.

To get an idea how much your USB stack is already cascaded, you could look at the Device Manager and switch to the connection view. Because many devices already come with internal hubs - and the Mainboard itself is also using logical hubs to multiply the number of USB connections.

Since I've neglected to say it before: Your build is truly amazing. I'm humbled by what you did there.


Thankyou dude I really appreciate it, I've spent more money than I'd like to admit on it lol. Yeah, I'm gonna have to check how much the signal is getting degraded as it goes through the hubs. Thats a genius idea actually I was always thinking it was crosstalk or the pins but maybe the hubs themselves that are limiting it due to the degrading of the signal. My main issue is the way I have it set up I think. So what I did was go from a USB 9 pin 4 port hub the amazon ones but I replaced all the wiring and use that to plug all nzxt hubs into. I think this may be my issue? I'm just not entirely sure which Is why I haven't changed it yet. Should I just buy another nzxt hub and use it to plug all the nzxt hubs into? Second-guessing the way I set it up now ? I dunno maybe its the amazon hub causing the issue and the limit I'm gonna unplug everything from it and see what the signal reads and then plug everything back into it and see what the signal reads if that's possible? I'm not exactly sure how to read the signal if someone could help me here? I wasn't sure you could do that? I'm looking in device manager at connections view and see everything but doesn't give me signals or anything like that? In windows 11 it sees an unknown USB device as the hub as the device descriptor failed. This is only on win11 though as I recently switched to it. Though I see every device listed under the USB tab on the taskbar. I also see every single device and hub listed in the device manager under generic USB hub and USB composite devices. I think the unknown USB device is the nzxt v1 hub to be honest. I currently have nothing plugged into it and I'm going to be removing it and replacing it if I can figure this out hopefully. I can take a screenshot of it if need be, just lmk?

Hey, also another small question I had, has anyone used UV dyes with dp-ultra? and If so what brand works well? I know apparently 10 years ago they even made a few batches of uv dp ultra? Not sure what happened to it as it seems to basically have never been released? J/w as I have a lot of UV lights I wanted to have uv coolant. So far I really like Dp-ultra only downside is it's not UV active. If anyone knows of UV dyes that don't affect nickel-copper and or dp-ultra that would be awesome, please let me know.

This post has been edited 13 times, last edit by "pneuma" (Sep 25th 2021, 8:31pm)

Remayz

Full Member

Saturday, September 25th 2021, 9:31pm

for signal integrity or crosstalk, that's oscilloscope territory ^^'
We only care if communication is reliable. I don't know what hub is that amazon one, too many references.

The 127 devices theoretical limit is hard to reach ^^ but to have the most reliable connexions possible you want to try to avoid daisychaining hubs in a long line.
I believe you already avoided that by using one hub to which all the others connect, and then all your controllers were in those secondary hubs (basically, the shoter the USB chain is, the better signal integrity will be).

I remember when USB came out, they actually demonstrated a laptop with a ridiculous amount of USB devices connected to hubs everywhere into a single connexion and it worked. but that was a laptop :)

In a computer case with high power components, bare PCBs everywhere with absolutely no shielding, and DC to DC converters radiating EMI all over the place, it's no wonder it's hard to get that many devices working.

That's why i try to keep the build as simple as possible :P (btw, no offense taken i was only pointing at the theoretical limit of USB, no worries!)

One thing i don't think we mentionned.. have you thought about adding internal headers through a PCIE card? that would allow you to split the controllers into shorter USB chains and have a more direct connexion to the motherboard.
And i'd love to see photos of the build's wiring too ! talk of some extreme stuff!

pneuma

Junior Member

Sunday, September 26th 2021, 8:49pm

for signal integrity or crosstalk, that's oscilloscope territory ^^'
We only care if communication is reliable. I don't know what hub is that amazon one, too many references.

The 127 devices theoretical limit is hard to reach ^^ but to have the most reliable connexions possible you want to try to avoid daisychaining hubs in a long line.
I believe you already avoided that by using one hub to which all the others connect, and then all your controllers were in those secondary hubs (basically, the shoter the USB chain is, the better signal integrity will be).

I remember when USB came out, they actually demonstrated a laptop with a ridiculous amount of USB devices connected to hubs everywhere into a single connexion and it worked. but that was a laptop :)

In a computer case with high power components, bare PCBs everywhere with absolutely no shielding, and DC to DC converters radiating EMI all over the place, it's no wonder it's hard to get that many devices working.

That's why i try to keep the build as simple as possible :P (btw, no offense taken i was only pointing at the theoretical limit of USB, no worries!)

One thing i don't think we mentionned.. have you thought about adding internal headers through a PCIE card? that would allow you to split the controllers into shorter USB chains and have a more direct connexion to the motherboard.
And i'd love to see photos of the build's wiring too ! talk of some extreme stuff!


Sorry I'll be more specific. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085KV…e?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the amazon 4 port hub I'm talking about there are actually a bunch of companies that make these they are all generally made the same. This one has worked for over a year for me with no real issues except disconnecting but originally it didn't have gold pins it hasn't disconnected since then.

"One thing i don't think we mentionned.. have you thought about adding internal headers through a PCIE card? that would allow you to split the controllers into shorter USB chains and have a more direct connexion to the motherboard.
And i'd love to see photos of the build's wiring too ! talk of some extreme stuff!"

No No, I have not thought about this lol any ideas on which model to buy? I guess I'll do some digging and find out which one is the best. To be honest that never even came to mind at all. I know they exist pcie USB extenders essentially are what they are and makes a lot of sense since the pcie lanes themselves can take in a crap ton of data all at once. Do they make a 9pin pcie extension card? If they don't its not big deal to adapt the 9 pin to a regular USB id have to buy 2 more adapters but I have 2 currently. Most of these cards come with 4 ports? What generation of USB pcie card should I be looking at here? Just standard USB 2.0 see some have internal ports some have external ports.
I will try and get some shots of under my rear door. I basically set it up so I wouldn't have to pull it out, but will get some shots for you, I've just been running cables in big bundles as it's supposed to be shielded I figured it would be fine. I guess I can make paths that are strictly for USB runs only if I have to I'd just have to literally tear everything apart and rewire a lot of stuff b/c I made the cables the exact lengths they needed to be so I didn't have any excess runoff of the cables. Hopefully, the PCIe card will solve the problem and I'll only have to tear apart a very small section where the hubs plug into the 4 port hub.

The build is a very complex build lol I know you don't have to tell me. I blame that on Aquacomputer and their endless release of really cool watercooling parts I feel the need to compulsively buy. :D

At the in-laws for dinner but as soon as I get home I'll take some shots of the wiring for you. Alot of it is stuffed wherever it could be lol The door closes that's all that matters to me lol and that took weeks worth of work to accomplish just getting the rear door to shut lol. Mostly had to do with cutting out and replacing any stock cables. Zip tied to death!

This post has been edited 10 times, last edit by "pneuma" (Sep 26th 2021, 9:17pm)

Monday, September 27th 2021, 12:24am

Cable management needs to consider both neatness and accessibility. I have worked in the professional audio/video industry for many years. We build lots of big equipment racks full of computers, network switches, and various signal processing devices. Think major rock and roll shows, theme park ride systems, and Vegas shows. We custom build pretty much every cable. You can custom cut every one to the millimeter, lace it all in and tie-wrap it all up. It looks beautiful, until you have to change something. The real trick is to figure out how to make it look great but also be serviceable. We put small devices on slide out shelves, with service loops neatly constructed to allow the shelf to slide out for service, then back in. My latest build is in a Fractal Meshify II XL case. Like many cases these days, its has a PSU shroud. Fractal puts 2 drive cages down at the bottom, hidden by the PSU shroud but accessible from the rear. I mounted my Octo, Farbwerks, Hubby7, and NZXT hub to the drive sled trays then arranged the cabling so I can slide the drive sleds out to access the devices, then slide them back in for operation. There has to be some "slop" in the cable harness to do this but you can make a service loop harness look good if you plan it out. Mounting my various control devices this way allowed me to use what would otherwise be dead space, keeps the rest of the back area clear (for more stuff), and keeps the delicate Aquacomputer connections in a protected, covered area. I just have to be sure nothing pulls loose when I am sliding the drive sleds closed.

pneuma

Junior Member

Monday, September 27th 2021, 6:17am

Hey so I found this one while doing some searching but this is pci express
MEO PCIe 2 Ports USB Internal 2 Port 9pin 9-pin USB2.0 Expansion Card Bluetooth USB WiFi PCI-E Adapter Converter Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QYZXPC4/ref…ZRKPFX10BBX450C
Not sure if this is exactly what you were talking about but close enough? Yeah I'm gonna have to undo alot of what I did to add this in lol no biggie if it solves my problem I will owe you big time!

Remayz

Full Member

Monday, September 27th 2021, 9:56am

it shows as out of stock here.
There's also dual USB3 cards i've seen, and you can add a USB3 to USB2 header cable to adapt. both styles would work (and they were black PCBs :p)

pneuma

Junior Member

Monday, September 27th 2021, 8:39pm

it shows as out of stock here.
There's also dual USB3 cards i've seen, and you can add a USB3 to USB2 header cable to adapt. both styles would work (and they were black PCBs :p)

Ok looking for them right now, the only black ones I see that are sort of name brand so to speak are made by fabsmart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081Y4NT25/ref…origin3-20&th=1
All the other black pcb ones are no-name chinese companies. Also as you can see they come with voltage converters onboard so they have all three voltages at a total of 66 watts. Seeing as the hubs are all powered that shouldn't really be a concern as far as power goes, I wouldn't think anyway? Maybe someone as else knows better than I do how that works when you daisy chain things like that? I'm assuming the nano's would get their power from the hubs?
Yeah its out of stock but there is a private seller with one https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zmg_aTa…iew?usp=sharing there's a ss of it. Maybe a tad bit overpriced, but not bad I wouldn't say. It just comes down to will this solve my issue. My only concern is that its pci express does not have the same amount of input capabilities like PCIe x16 does. Especially gen 3 PCIe to be considered also as I'm on an x299. Just concerned It's not going to be enough. Obviously, I'm not worried about power here as it has an onboard power plugin so will be using the pci express lane strictly for USB input. Just trying to get some of your opinions and thoughts on whether this will work or not before I go ahead and purchase it? Though I think the new USB 3.1 10gbps cards could outdo the pci-express with the amount of data it can input. I've done some reading and startech apparently makes a really good one but it's pricey and has a heatsink on its main controller as the controllers on these boards are known to explode when you plug too much into it, Which is exactly what I'll be doing lol. Granted a lot of them have 7 external inputs and 2 internal. That's 18 devices just from the connections themselves. If a nice one with a good controller on it can have hubs plugged into it then I'll get one of those as it makes more sense to do that. I'm just looking for the best option, Not sure if anyone has experience with these newer USB 3.0 extension cards? Just wondering what can I do to maximize my chances of success here?

This post has been edited 7 times, last edit by "pneuma" (Sep 27th 2021, 9:08pm)