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P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Aquacomputer & RGB...complete RGB noob needs advice... :0)

Thursday, January 13th 2022, 2:28pm

Hey guys.

I'm preparing to put in an order with Aquatuning and I want to pick up some RGB accessories, but I know nothing at all about RGB; how to connect it, or how to control it. I've seen the connectors and I see how they fit together, but beyond that I have no experience of setting up or controlling RGB.

However, I want to put the order through sooner rather than later, so...I basically need a shopping list of what I'm going to need for RGB?

I'm hoping to install 22 RGB accessories 10 of which will be addressable.

I have an Octo, two Splitty 9 actives, and a High Flow Next.

What else do I need?

Also, are all RGB/addressable-RGB products compatible with Aqua Computer RGB solutions...?...I saw in a manual that there are compatible products but is it really limited to just those...?...for instance, 8 of the items I want to add to my PC are Phantek addressable RGB fan frames (https://www.phanteks.com/Halos.html) but I'm concerned they might not be compatible with Aqua Computer software/hardware.

Edit: Thanks in advance; I have to go AFK so I won't be able to respond immediately, but help & advice would be most appreciated. :)

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 13th 2022, 2:30pm)

Thursday, January 13th 2022, 5:47pm

The analog RGB and digital adressable LED are incompatible! They require different voltages, different controlers, different connectors. You cannot mix them.

The OCTO and High Flow Next can only control digital adressable LEDs, and are limited to 90 LEDs for each RGBpx channel. The OCTO has 2 RGBpx channels. The High Flow Next has 1 RGBpx channel.
RGBpx requires the LEDs to be compatible with the WorldSemi WS2812 protocol. (most of the adressable LEDs in the computer sector use this protocol, but a few do not)

If you want to control analog RGB, you need a Farbwerk for analog LEDs.
There are two different types of analog RGB LEDs, one is Common Anode, the other is Common Cathode (again incompatible with each other)
I believe the Farbwerk requires Common Anode LEDs (not sure)

The Phanteks Halos you linked uses the analog RGB. All connected LEDs share the same color.
The Phanteks Halos Digital use Adressable RGB LEDs, each LED can have a seperate color.


The LED stuff is complicated. You cannot pick random Stuff and expect it to be compatible.

This post has been edited 5 times, last edit by "Hufeisen" (Jan 13th 2022, 6:16pm)

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Thursday, January 13th 2022, 8:32pm

Thanks for responding, I didn't realise it was so complicated.

Also, I had no idea it was possible to control non-addressable RGB?

Do you think the Farbwerk can control the LED's in the non-addressable Phanteks Helos? I only need them to display one colour; that's the only reason I was interested in the digital version of the Helos.

Also, 12 of the RGB accessories I need to install have standard 3-pin fan connectors to power the LED's, so I've ordered an extra Splitty9 and am planning on plugging 9 of them into the splitty9 and the other 3 into the OCTO.

Unfortunately it seems the RGBpx Splitty12 ACTIVE isn't available to the U.K. (where I live) and Aquatuning aren't stocking it, so I was planning on purchasing a cheap RGB hub from eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353842416665?…7oAAOSwaTRh1T5a

Do you think the Farbwerk will be compatible with the regular Helos? Is there a way to tell...?...maybe I should contact Aqua Computer customer support...?...although, I guess they probably don't know?

Edit: The product page for the Farbwerk at Aquatuning says it's compatible with 12v strips of common anode. Is that what Phanteks' Helos' have?

Edit: I found a post to this forum saying Phanteks' ARGB works with Farbwerk, but...does that mean their regular RGB will?

(Another) edit: So, those RGB accessories with the 3-pin fan connectors probably need adapters to go to an argb socket right? :rolleyes:

This post has been edited 10 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 14th 2022, 8:48am)

Friday, January 14th 2022, 4:44pm

I am still unsure which version of the Phanteks Halos you want to buy...
You post links to the non-digital version, and write text about being interested in the digital version.
The non-digital version uses analog LEDs, the digital version use digital adressable LEDs. So they require different rgb controllers.

Do you think the Farbwerk can control the LED's in the non-addressable Phanteks Helos?
Yes, the regular Farbwerk (not the Farbwerk 360!) can control the analog Phanteks Halos.
You also need an Adapter.


I have never seen Accessories with a standard 3-pin Fan connector to power the LEDs that have the ability to control the LEDs.
For analog LEDs, you always require 4 Pins (one Pin for power, the other 3 Pins for each color. Red, Green, Blue)
For digital adressable LEDs, you need 3 Pins, but the LEDs run with 5V so they dont have a standard Fan Connector for RGB Control.

Can you post a link to the 12 RGB accessories you plan to use that have only a 3pin Fan connector?

This post has been edited 11 times, last edit by "Hufeisen" (Jan 14th 2022, 6:17pm)

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Saturday, January 15th 2022, 9:57am

Hi, sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you; I'm just new to this and unsure of the details.

And yes, I was confused about the connector; sorry about that, I'd got it mixed up. :S

I've reduced the number of fans I'm going to install to 6, so it works out just as expensive for me to buy digital Halos and have fans that can be configured more easily through standard means, as it would be for me to buy a Farbwerk and 6 non-digital Helos'.

Having said that, one thing I am a bit concerned about, is how bright the RGB in the Helos' is going to be? It seems the Farbwerk can control brightness as well as colour, but the Helos' product page doesn't specify whether the LED's are dimmable or not...?...which makes me think they probably aren't?

I'm wondering if the Farbwerk has a little extra magic up it's sleeve and whether it can be used to dim the LED's, in the Halos' even though they're not stated as being "dimmable"?

Also, the digital Helos' have 30 RGB where the non-digital Helos' have 21...so, across 6 fans, that's a difference of 54 LED's which, in terms of how much light is emitted, I would think is quite significant...?...although it might not make that big a difference?

On one hand, I think the 30 RGB's in the digital Helos' might have a smoother diffusion...? (although I'm not sure if that's actually the case; it's just an assumption) and on the other hand, I think 54 fewer LED's might lead to a more subtle (less intense) effect?

If I can dim them, then it gives me more control, but I'm not sure if the Halos' LED's are actually dimmable. :S

This post has been edited 5 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 15th 2022, 10:26am)

Remayz

Full Member

Saturday, January 15th 2022, 3:28pm

they are just LEDs.
what makes them dimmable is the controller. digital or analog, you can adjust brightness of course, with either farbwerk or farbwerk360.

the diming issue is with house lights where each bulb has its own power supply built in, and you can't reduce brightness by reducing the voltage with a traditionnal dimmer, that will just give you a flashy light show at best.
Here it's totally different.

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Saturday, January 15th 2022, 4:54pm

they are just LEDs.
what makes them dimmable is the controller. digital or analog, you can adjust brightness of course, with either farbwerk or farbwerk360.

the diming issue is with house lights where each bulb has its own power supply built in, and you can't reduce brightness by reducing the voltage with a traditionnal dimmer, that will just give you a flashy light show at best.
Here it's totally different.
Thanks :0) That's good to know. :0)

Do most RGB/ARGB software's/device's allow you to alter brightness?

The RGBpx Splitty12 ACTIVE for instance...does that use the same software as the Farbwerk...?...and, can it be used to adjust brightness?

I have one on its way to me, so, if I can use it to adjust brightness, I wouldn't need to pick up a Farbwerk, and could purchase digital halos'.

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 15th 2022, 5:17pm)

Remayz

Full Member

Saturday, January 15th 2022, 7:26pm

the splitty 12 is only a splitter, it has no electronics in it, it's not a controller.

Its main purpose is to power the LEDs from SATA (direct from the power supply) and not from the controller.
controllers have a maximum power rating per output. if you exceed it, it shuts down. the Splitty12 allows you to have each output powered by SATA, and the controller only sends RGB data to the LEDs, basically gettting rid of the power limit.

you have data going from the Farbwerk360 to the splitty
Power going from the PSU to the Splitty

And the splitty powers your device's leds from the PSU and splits the RGB data to all the outputs.


it's similar to a powered USB hub, where the 5V power comes from the little power brick, and the computer only takes care of data.

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Saturday, January 15th 2022, 11:05pm

the splitty 12 is only a splitter, it has no electronics in it, it's not a controller.

Its main purpose is to power the LEDs from SATA (direct from the power supply) and not from the controller.
controllers have a maximum power rating per output. if you exceed it, it shuts down. the Splitty12 allows you to have each output powered by SATA, and the controller only sends RGB data to the LEDs, basically gettting rid of the power limit.

you have data going from the Farbwerk360 to the splitty
Power going from the PSU to the Splitty

And the splitty powers your device's leds from the PSU and splits the RGB data to all the outputs.


it's similar to a powered USB hub, where the 5V power comes from the little power brick, and the computer only takes care of data.
Thanks so much for responding, it's really appreciated. :)

So...it's possible to send RGB data from the FarbWerk, to the Splitty12, to control ARGB devices...?...or, do I need the FarbWerk360 to control ARGB? (& the FarbWerk to control RGB?)

Or, in other words: I wouldn't be able to control ARGB LED's via the Splitty12 using a regular FarbWerk; I'd need the FarbWerk360 to do that?

Edit: Okay, so, I looked at the product pages and it seems the regular FarbWerk isn't compatible with the Splitty12? The Splitty12 only has an input for ARGB and the regular FarbWerk only outputs via an RGB header.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 15th 2022, 11:16pm)

Sunday, January 16th 2022, 12:08am



So...it's possible to send RGB data from the FarbWerk, to the Splitty12, to control ARGB devices...?...or, do I need the FarbWerk360 to control ARGB? (& the FarbWerk to control RGB?)

Or, in other words: I wouldn't be able to control ARGB LED's via the Splitty12 using a regular FarbWerk; I'd need the FarbWerk360 to do that?

Edit: Okay, so, I looked at the product pages and it seems the regular FarbWerk isn't compatible with the Splitty12? The Splitty12 only has an input for ARGB and the regular FarbWerk only outputs via an RGB header.

Yes you need the Farbwerk360 to control ARGB 5vdc LED's. The Farbwerk is for 12vdc LEDs and will not work with ARGB LEDs. The Splitty12 Active is an ARGB device and will work with the Farbwerk360 but not the Farbwerk. Even though it says "Active", that really just means that it has it's own SATA power connection, so the LEDs get their power from the SATA connection rather than the USB connection. Its really a passive device meaning it does not have a microcontroller in it like the Octo and Farbwerk360. It is an ARGB splitter which connectors for Corsair ARGB fans, RGBpx LEDs, or ARGB devices with "standard" ARGB connectors (sometimes called DRGB) which are those horrible 4-pin connectors with only 3 pins used. Its a terrible connector with almost zero insertion friction. It's really ease for an ARGB cable to just fall out of the header it's plugged into. It's also easy to mix up a 12vdc 4-pin connector with a 5vdc 4-pin connector (with only 3 pins used). Many have fried their ARGB LEDs by plugging them into a 12vdc RGB header. There is nothing that physically prevents you from doing this. It's a shame that such a crappy connector became the standard for ARGB/DRGB. The Aquacomputer RGBpx connector is an improvement but you do need to be careful with them. They are quite small and easily damaged. They are really Molex Pico-Blade connectors.

The Farbwerk360 has 4 RGBpx ports that work like the RGBpx ports on the Octo. There are some differences in the Farbwerk360 RGBpx ports verses the Octo RGBpx ports. The RGBpx ports on the Farbwerk360 allow adjustment of transparency of RGB effects layers so you can have one or more lighting effects "bleed through" another. The Octo does not have this feature. Also, the Octo is limited to 6 LED controllers (effects) per output while the Farbwerk360 can have up to 20 LED controllers across the 4 outputs. The Farbwerk360 also allows up to 60 Multi-Assign LED controllers which means the same controller can be assigned to multiple ports. I thin the RGBpx port on the High Flow Next and similar products has the same limitations as the RGBpx ports on the Octo. This is all detailed in the owner's manuals for these products. I recommend downloading and reading them to gain a clear understanding of what these devices can do, and what their limitations are.

Hope this was helpful.

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Sunday, January 16th 2022, 12:15am



So...it's possible to send RGB data from the FarbWerk, to the Splitty12, to control ARGB devices...?...or, do I need the FarbWerk360 to control ARGB? (& the FarbWerk to control RGB?)

Or, in other words: I wouldn't be able to control ARGB LED's via the Splitty12 using a regular FarbWerk; I'd need the FarbWerk360 to do that?

Edit: Okay, so, I looked at the product pages and it seems the regular FarbWerk isn't compatible with the Splitty12? The Splitty12 only has an input for ARGB and the regular FarbWerk only outputs via an RGB header.

Yes you need the Farbwerk360 to control ARGB 5vdc LED's. The Farbwerk is for 12vdc LEDs and will not work with ARGB LEDs. The Splitty12 Active is an ARGB device and will work with the Farbwerk360 but not the Farbwerk. Even though it says "Active", that really just means that it has it's own SATA power connection, so the LEDs get their power from the SATA connection rather than the USB connection. Its really a passive device meaning it does not have a microcontroller in it like the Octo and Farbwerk360. It is an ARGB splitter which connectors for Corsair ARGB fans, RGBpx LEDs, or ARGB devices with "standard" ARGB connectors (sometimes called DRGB) which are those horrible 4-pin connectors with only 3 pins used. Its a terrible connector with almost zero insertion friction. It's really ease for an ARGB cable to just fall out of the header it's plugged into. It's also easy to mix up a 12vdc 4-pin connector with a 5vdc 4-pin connector (with only 3 pins used). Many have fried their ARGB LEDs by plugging them into a 12vdc RGB header. There is nothing that physically prevents you from doing this. It's a shame that such a crappy connector became the standard for ARGB/DRGB. The Aquacomputer RGBpx connector is an improvement but you do need to be careful with them. They are quite small and easily damaged. They are really Molex Pico-Blade connectors.

The Farbwerk360 has 4 RGBpx ports that work like the RGBpx ports on the Octo. There are some differences in the Farbwerk360 RGBpx ports verses the Octo RGBpx ports. The RGBpx ports on the Farbwerk360 allow adjustment of transparency of RGB effects layers so you can have one or more lighting effects "bleed through" another. The Octo does not have this feature. Also, the Octo is limited to 6 LED controllers (effects) per output while the Farbwerk360 can have up to 20 LED controllers across the 4 outputs. The Farbwerk360 also allows up to 60 Multi-Assign LED controllers which means the same controller can be assigned to multiple ports. I thin the RGBpx port on the High Flow Next and similar products has the same limitations as the RGBpx ports on the Octo. This is all detailed in the owner's manuals for these products. I recommend downloading and reading them to gain a clear understanding of what these devices can do, and what their limitations are.

Hope this was helpful.
That's brilliant, thank you; very helpful indeed.

I had no idea these devices were so complex; I'll definitely take a look at the manuals.

Thanks again :0)

Sunday, January 16th 2022, 7:31pm

Yes they are complex devices, but that is why they are so powerful. Aquasuite (AQS) allows you to do some very complex things with the sensor data. You can perform mathematical, logic, and statistical calculations on the sensor data. So you can add various temps together, or subtract them, average them, etc. For example, in my system I have a coolant temp sensor, 2 case air temp sensors and 2 ambient temp sensors. My fans are controlled by the temperature difference between the coolant and the average value of the ambient temp sensors. You can make a virtual sensor whose value depends on CPU and GPU temps, The possibilities are endless. The great thing about Aquacomputer controllers like the Oct, Quadro, Farbwerk360, etc. is that they have microcontrollers in them. Once you configure them, program instructions are downloaded to the devices. They can then run their own little programs without AQS even running. Some more advanced functions that involve virtual sensors or imported data do require AQS to be running. If you plan carefully, you can set things up so the most basic functions can operate independently of AQS. For example, my Octo controls and monitors my pump. If the pump speed goes below a minimum value, an Alarm is tripped that will cause the Octo to immediately shut down the computer via an Aquacomputer #53216 alarm cable. Since the pump data is local to the Octo, this alarm will trip even if AQS is not running. Features like this are what make AQS so much more powerful than something like Corsair iCue (which is a bloated, buggy mess).

It can get complicated, so take your time, read the owner's manuals, and check your parts list carefully - especially special cables and adapters. There are a lot of cables that look really similar but are not the same. Finally, use this forum to get advice and help. https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/ is also a good source for information and help. There is also an unofficial Aquacomputer Discord (https://discord.gg/tYpExgbv) but its not too active (yet). I am hoping it picks up. To see some really interesting and somewhat complex things you can do in AQS, check out KayBee Tech on Youtube. He has only done a few videos so far but some of the things he does in AQS are really clever. It will show you the power of this program.

Have fun and Good Luck!

Remayz

Full Member

Sunday, January 16th 2022, 7:49pm

and things will make more sense once you get Aquasuite going and look through the various pages.
it's hard to grasp it when you can't fiddle with settings yourself :)

It can be used very simply, or be made as complex and in depth as you desire as Speedy explained.

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Monday, January 17th 2022, 12:42am

Sorry about the formatting...I'm not sure what happened but the forum software seems to have added multiples of each multi-quote. :|

and things will make more sense once you get Aquasuite going and look through the various pages.
it's hard to grasp it when you can't fiddle with settings yourself :)

It can be used very simply, or be made as complex and in depth as you desire as Speedy explained.
Yeah, it's just taking forever to get the parts together for my build. I have to buy incrementally, and so it's taken time.

Recently I decided to revise my intended build completely and just bought a Lian-Li o11 Air Mini and an Alphacool SuperNova external radiator and decided to use hard tubing, instead of soft, for my water-cooling....leaving me with a pile of radiators, soft-tubing fittings and a computer case to sell on eBay before I can afford to complete the build. :rolleyes:

...but, getting started on that tomorrow, so...it shouldn't be too much longer (I hope ^^ )

Yes they are complex devices, but that is why they are so powerful. Aquasuite (AQS) allows you to do some very complex things with the sensor data. You can perform mathematical, logic, and statistical calculations on the sensor data. So you can add various temps together, or subtract them, average them, etc. For example, in my system I have a coolant temp sensor, 2 case air temp sensors and 2 ambient temp sensors. My fans are controlled by the temperature difference between the coolant and the average value of the ambient temp sensors. You can make a virtual sensor whose value depends on CPU and GPU temps, The possibilities are endless. The great thing about Aquacomputer controllers like the Oct, Quadro, Farbwerk360, etc. is that they have microcontrollers in them. Once you configure them, program instructions are downloaded to the devices. They can then run their own little programs without AQS even running. Some more advanced functions that involve virtual sensors or imported data do require AQS to be running. If you plan carefully, you can set things up so the most basic functions can operate independently of AQS. For example, my Octo controls and monitors my pump. If the pump speed goes below a minimum value, an Alarm is tripped that will cause the Octo to immediately shut down the computer via an Aquacomputer #53216 alarm cable. Since the pump data is local to the Octo, this alarm will trip even if AQS is not running. Features like this are what make AQS so much more powerful than something like Corsair iCue (which is a bloated, buggy mess).

It can get complicated, so take your time, read the owner's manuals, and check your parts list carefully - especially special cables and adapters. There are a lot of cables that look really similar but are not the same. Finally, use this forum to get advice and help. https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/ is also a good source for information and help. There is also an unofficial Aquacomputer Discord (https://discord.gg/tYpExgbv) but its not too active (yet). I am hoping it picks up. To see some really interesting and somewhat complex things you can do in AQS, check out KayBee Tech on Youtube. He has only done a few videos so far but some of the things he does in AQS are really clever. It will show you the power of this program.

Have fun and Good Luck!
Thanks so much for the info and the links, it's most appreciated. :)

Currently my needs are pretty basic: I just need to be able to colour-match the RGB and adjust brightness so that one colour doesn't overwhelm another...

...but being basic, they're also very specific, so trying to figure out what's going to let me do exactly those two things has led to all these questions.

Maybe when I get to grips with the software it might inspire me to do something more creative...?...but for the moment, I'll be happy just to get the colours to match. ^^



This post has been edited 3 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 17th 2022, 12:53am)

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Saturday, January 22nd 2022, 12:02pm

Does the RGBpx Splitty 12 Active support "Addressable Gen 2 RGB"?

The reason I ask is, that I've had a bit of a setback:

I Installed a Cooler Master Masterfan MF140 Halo, into my case, plugged it in to the ARGB header, but it just didn't work.

I tried to enable it in my motherboard's RGB software but still nothing.

I looked more closely at the fan's specs, and it seems it supports "Addressable Gen 2 RGB"

I'm guessing this is the reason why it's not working with my motherboard?

I'm going to try and get it working with the RGBpx.

Saturday, January 22nd 2022, 6:24pm

Cooler Master Masterfan MF140 Halo
I don't know what "Gen 2 RGB" means but think it is marketing nonsense meaning they are 5VDC ARGB instead of 12VDC analog RGB. The Cooler Master product page for that fan shows that it is compatible with Asus Aura and all of the other generally terrible RGB control programs developed by mobo manufacturers. This means that they are standard 5VDC ARGB (sometimes called DRGB) LEDs. If they did not work when you plugged them into a mobo ARGB header, it could be a bad fan, a bad cable, a bad ARGB header, or maybe operator error. You didn't mention what mobo you have or what RGB control software you are running. They are all pretty terrible. I recommend you look into the Aquacomputer Farbwerk360 (not the Farbwerk which is for 12VDC analog LEDs). The Farbwerk360 has 4 RGBpx ports each of which can drive up to 90 LEDs. You will need RGBpx cables like the #53261 and an RGBpx to "standard" ARGB connector #53282.

Another thought on it not working when plugged into a mobo RGB header - There are 2 types of RGB headers on some motherboards - The newer 5VDC ARGB header and the older 12VDC analog RGB header. Both of these headers use the same connector. The only difference is that the ARGB connector only uses 3 of the 4 pins, which are for +5VDC, Ground, and Data. The 4-pin 12VDC header has 12VDC, Red, Green, Blue. If you plugged the fan RGB cable into a 12VDC analog RGB header, it would most likely burn out the LEDs. I have read many posts from people who did exactly this. There is no keying or blocking to prevent someone from plugging into the wrong type of header. Does your mobo have both types of headers? Check the manual and any markings around the header carefully. Here is a comparison picture for reference.

I don't know what this "standard" RGB connector is called but it's a horrible connector. There is no latch or retention mechanism and hardly any insertion friction so the RGB cable can just fall off the header. Male to female connections also tend to just fall apart. EK even offers the EK-Loop-CMS which wraps around the male-female connection and holds them together. The Aquacomputer RGBpx connectors are much better, but they are quite small and delicate so you have to handle them gently. If you are interested in making your own RGBpx cables, the connectors are Molex Pico-Blade series.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Speedy-VI" (Jan 22nd 2022, 6:26pm)

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Saturday, January 22nd 2022, 9:18pm

I've no idea (re. Gen 2 RGB)...it's just what it said on the box. I assumed that was the problem when it didn't work...?...but it turned out to be a bad ARGB header. :S

I keep thinking RGBpx Splitty 12 Active is like the Octo (plugging in via a USB) :wacko: but...that's the Farbwerk.

You wrote that I'd need these for the Farbwerk:

RGBpx-Anschlusskabel, Länge 50 cm (aquacomputer.de) & RGBpx adapter for components with motherboard header (aquacomputer.de)

...is that to plug it into the motherboard?

Can't I just plug the ARGB devices into the ARGB headers on the Farbwerk 360...?...and so, shouldn't need cables and/or adapters? And if I exceed the limit of the Farbwerk I can run a separately-powered RGBpx Splitty 12 Active off of the Farbwerk 360, to plug in more ARGB devices?

Also, did you mean this adapter...
RGBpx adapter for connecting RGBpx components to motherboard headers (aquacomputer.de) ?

My board's an MSI Z490 Godlike (they were reduced to GBP300 over Christmas, so I got one as a partial Christmas present and am selling my previous motherboard to offset the rest of the cost.)

It's a shame that the ARGB header is non-functional. I might try it with the RGBpx Splitty 12 Active I have here, to see if the connector still carries the data. It might mean it could work with with the RGBpx Splitty as a passthrough for providing power to the ARGB components.


And yes, it's my first experience of ARGB and the connector did keep falling off of the faulty header, although the functional ARGB connector is actually a really snug fit and is on pretty tightly, so that's something I guess.

I'm not sure if I should get a Farbwerk 360 or not...?...I think my motherboard RGB software does more or less what I need it to. It might not be great but it's got my particular needs covered, and I don't really know what more I could ask for?

I guess I could use the Farbwerk 360 to autonomously control the ARGB to reduce CPU load, but as I understand it the CPU load from ARGB is pretty minimal?

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 22nd 2022, 9:20pm)

Saturday, January 22nd 2022, 10:51pm

I've no idea (re. Gen 2 RGB)...it's just what it said on the box. I assumed that was the problem when it didn't work...?...but it turned out to be a bad ARGB header. :S

I keep thinking RGBpx Splitty 12 Active is like the Octo (plugging in via a USB) :wacko: but...that's the Farbwerk.
Correct. The Splitty12 Active is just a "dumb" ARGB splitter. It provides SATA based power for the LEDs but there is no microcontroller on board, and hence no USB connection.

You wrote that I'd need these for the Farbwerk:

RGBpx-Anschlusskabel, Länge 50 cm (aquacomputer.de) & RGBpx adapter for components with motherboard header (aquacomputer.de)

...is that to plug it into the motherboard?
Yes you would need the #53282 to connect a standard ARGB female in-line connector to an RGBpx port (via an RGBpx cable). To go the other way you need the #53285 which allows you to connect RGBpx devices to a standard mobo ARGB header.

My board's an MSI Z490 Godlike. It's a shame that the ARGB header is non-functional.

I looked up your mobo. MSI's site is annoying (like all the others) but I found the list of RGB headers. It has 1 x 4-pin RGB LED connector (I think this one is 12VDC so DO NOT PLUG THE FAN RGB INTO THIS ONE), 2 x 3-pin "JRAINBOW" LED connectors (This is the MSI name for ARGB. These are the ones you want to use), and 1 x Corsair LED connector. (This is standard ARGB, but they provided a mate for Corsair's proprietary RGB connectors. It's still ARGB (5VDC). Remember that MSI calls standard 5VDC ARGB "JRAINBOW" and 12VDC analog RGB "JRGB".

I might try it with the RGBpx Splitty 12 Active I have here, to see if the connector still carries the data.

You could try putting a Splitty 12 Active in there and see if the fan LEDs start working. If the "JRAINBOW ARGB port on the mobo is bad, then it's bad. There are 2 of them so try the other one. A Splitty12 Active is really only required if you have a lot (up to 12) of the same ARGB fans (or whatever) that you want to all do the same RGB pattern. If you just have a few fans you can get smaller splitters. I don't know if your Cooler Master fans have ARGB loops like the Lion Li Uni-fans or if each one has it's own ARGB connector (like Corsair). They do show a retention clip that holds the ARGB connectors together. If they daisy-chain, you could just loop them together and plug the first one into a JRAINBOW port on the mobo (if they are working), and use MSI Mystic Light (which I have heard is horrible but have never used myself). If not, and you feel that the Farbwerk360 is overkill, they do have the Farbwerk Nano. It comes with one RGBpx LED strip and all the cables you need to connect it. You could hang the fan ARGB off the end of the RGBpx LED strip but you will need and RGBpx cable and adapter to do it (and total LED count must be under 91). If you get either of the Farbwerks, you will need Aquasuite to configure it. After its set up, you can shut down Aquasuite if you want (unless you are doing LED color changes based on a virtual sensor). I would give you mobo JRAINBOW ports another try first, if you are OK using Mystic Light to control everything.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Speedy-VI" (Jan 22nd 2022, 10:52pm)

P.C.Zen

Junior Member

Sunday, January 23rd 2022, 1:24pm

I've no idea (re. Gen 2 RGB)...it's just what it said on the box. I assumed that was the problem when it didn't work...?...but it turned out to be a bad ARGB header. :S

I keep thinking RGBpx Splitty 12 Active is like the Octo (plugging in via a USB) :wacko: but...that's the Farbwerk.
Correct. The Splitty12 Active is just a "dumb" ARGB splitter. It provides SATA based power for the LEDs but there is no microcontroller on board, and hence no USB connection.

You wrote that I'd need these for the Farbwerk:

RGBpx-Anschlusskabel, Länge 50 cm (aquacomputer.de) & RGBpx adapter for components with motherboard header (aquacomputer.de)

...is that to plug it into the motherboard?

Yes you would need the #53282 to connect a standard ARGB female in-line connector to an RGBpx port (via an RGBpx cable). To go the other way you need the My board's an MSI Z490 Godlike. It's a shame that the ARGB header is non-functional.

I looked up your mobo. MSI's site is annoying (like all the others) but I found the list of RGB headers. It has 1 x 4-pin RGB LED connector (I think this one is 12VDC so DO NOT PLUG THE FAN RGB INTO THIS ONE), 2 x 3-pin "JRAINBOW" LED connectors (This is the MSI name for ARGB. These are the ones you want to use), and 1 x Corsair LED connector. (This is standard ARGB, but they provided a mate for Corsair's proprietary RGB connectors. It's still ARGB (5VDC). Remember that MSI calls standard 5VDC ARGB "JRAINBOW" and 12VDC analog RGB "JRGB".

I might try it with the RGBpx Splitty 12 Active I have here, to see if the connector still carries the data.

You could try putting a Splitty 12 Active in there and see if the fan LEDs start working. If the "JRAINBOW ARGB port on the mobo is bad, then it's bad. There are 2 of them so try the other one. A Splitty12 Active is really only required if you have a lot (up to 12) of the same ARGB fans (or whatever) that you want to all do the same RGB pattern. If you just have a few fans you can get smaller splitters. I don't know if your Cooler Master fans have ARGB loops like the Lion Li Uni-fans or if each one has it's own ARGB connector (like Corsair). They do show a retention clip that holds the ARGB connectors together. If they daisy-chain, you could just loop them together and plug the first one into a JRAINBOW port on the mobo (if they are working), and use MSI Mystic Light (which I have heard is horrible but have never used myself). If not, and you feel that the Farbwerk360 is overkill, they do have the Farbwerk Nano. It comes with one RGBpx LED strip and all the cables you need to connect it. You could hang the fan ARGB off the end of the RGBpx LED strip but you will need and RGBpx cable and adapter to do it (and total LED count must be under 91). If you get either of the Farbwerks, you will need Aquasuite to configure it. After its set up, you can shut down Aquasuite if you want (unless you are doing LED color changes based on a virtual sensor). I would give you mobo JRAINBOW ports another try first, if you are OK using Mystic Light to control everything.
Speedy, thank you so much for the advice; it's very appreciated.

And yes, I'll pick up two or three of that cable & adapter. I have two RGBpx Splitty12 Actives with me already, so I'll give the second ARGB port a try with the Splitty12 in-line. I know it's a long-shot, but worth a try I think.

Thank you for going to the trouble of looking up my board specs.; I was extra careful fitting the RGB (I've got the Cooler Master Halo fan plugged into the working ARGB header and a regular (non-digital) Phanteks Helos plugged into the standard RGB connector).

The Phanteks Helos is okay, but the Cooler Master Halo looks absolutely spectacular. It's actually made me give up my silent fans for Cooler Master Halos (I just ordered another five). The Phanteks Helos looks a little anaemic by comparison and is awkward to fit, so, unless you absolutely cannot (or will not) give up your favorite fan, then I'd advise going with the Halo's. They really do look fantastic.

I'm definitely going to pick up a Farbwerk360, as I want to configure the LED's in the Halos. I should be able to cover the full number of LED's across all of the fans by running a separately-powered Splitty12 from one of the Farbwerk360 headers.

And yes, the Masterfans do have a pass-through, so, as long as I don't exceed the maximums on the connectors, It should be easy enough to get them hooked up.

The EK loop CMS looks really smart (and really useful) too; thanks for the link. I'll pick up a few, along with the extra cables and adapters, to convert the Masterfans to PX.



This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "P.C.Zen" (Jan 23rd 2022, 1:27pm)

Sunday, January 23rd 2022, 11:34pm

Sounds like you have a plan. I don't know anything about the Cooler Master Halo fans but they look decent. I still don't know what they mean by "Gen2 LEDs". Maybe they upgraded to a brighter LED. Static Pressure is not great at 1.6mm H20 but sometimes you have to trade performance for bling. I am guilty of installing Corsair QL120 fans on my Fractal AIO radiator, and they have even worse static pressure than the Halo, or just about anything else. They have been described as a circular LED strip that also blows a little air. If you want higher static pressure AND RGB, I think the best options out there in 120mm are the Artic P12 PWM ARGB (1.85mm H20, 12 LEDs) or the Corsair ML120 Pro RGB series (1.78mm H2O, but only 4 LEDs) or the ML 120 RGB Elite series (2.90mm H2O, 8 LEDs). If you are willing to forgo RGB or use Phanteks Halos Lux RGB fan frames, then Artic P12-PWM PST (1.85mm H20) or BioniX P120 (2.75mm H2O) or Phantek PF-120T30 (3.30mm H2O), or good ol' Noctua Chromax NF-A12x25 (2.34mm H2O). This assumes you can believe the manufacturer's specs. Noctua's performance is proven, and the Artic P1x series and the Phanteks are getting good reviews. I don't trust Corsair specs at all, for static pressure or anything else.

I could not find how many LEDs are in a MF Halo fan anywhere in Cooler Master's product pages or spec sheet. Just make sure that you don't exceed 90 LEDs on any one Splitty12 Active output and 200 LEDs for the entire Splitty12 Active. The Cooler Master website says they provide little latching clips to hold the stupid ARGB connectors together. It's good to see manufacturers addressing this issue. It would be better if they selected a better connector but I guess it's too late for that. I have no idea who chose this connector, for 12VDC analog RGB and ARGB (with one pin missing), but it was a terrible decision. Probably driven by price. Good luck!