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Barnack

Junior Member

Aqua Stream XT just died?

Tuesday, July 3rd 2018, 11:24pm

Greetings,
i have an Aqua Stream XT since 3 years now. Today i was unmountting my pc for a deep dust cleaning, as i do regularly; i didn't open my water loop at all; just disconnected, cleaned and reconnected all computer parts, including the pump. When i put it all back together (after making sure all air was out of the pump of course) and started the computer, the pump started emitting red light 4 times; then a brief pause, then another 4 times. During all that it wasn't pumping at all, which made my cpu overheat in literally 3-4 seconds and shut down the computer.
I then double checked the cables, and they were all correctly plugged in. Tried to restart, same results.
Then i tried any conbination of cables, with and without "usb", with and without "rpm". (of course with power supply cable in).
With these tests i had sometimes no light at all, sometimes a fixed red light. The pump started to do a very short vibration when i pressed the computer power button. It's a vibration like it vibrates when it normally runs, no unusual noise; but it lasts for very short, less then half a second, and then stops; until system shut down because of cpu overheating.


I then got liquid out of the pump moving it up high, removed it from the liquid cycle, and tried to open it, because i started suspecting there were some impurities left inside. But nope, it was perfectly clean as if it was new.


Put it back in, made sure all air got out of the pump again, tried starting the computer.


Right now, whatever i do it keeps doing that really really short vibration as soon as i run the computer, then it stops to never start again.


Is it an hardware issue? Is there any specific replacement part i should look for rather than buying a new pump?

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 11:38am

It sound a lot like there is a problem with the controller board.

You could take a closer look at the larger SMD resistor (with R470 imprint) which sits below the 4-pin Moled block. There is a chance that it might look a bit burned or brownish. Replacing it might solve your problem.

Otherwise you could send in the pump or just the controller board for a check. A new controller board is also available as replacement part and costs 30 Euro.

Barnack

Junior Member

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 12:09pm

what should i replace it with? I'm not used to touching circuits, I'm more the software kind of person ?(

is there any way to bypass the controller and just plug the power to make the pump pump without fancy controls as a temporary solution?


______________________
Edit: how do i remove the Yellow frontal cover to access the board?

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Barnack" (Jul 4th 2018, 12:23pm)

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 12:54pm

Just in case the resistor is damaged, then you would replace it with the same type (R470, SMD, 2512).

When you remove the controller board you can run the pump with a 9-12 volt AC (not DC!) power supply.

Barnack

Junior Member

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 1:02pm

still not understanding how to remove that plate, i'm scared of damaging it pulling with too much strenght. It doesnt seem to move :\

AC is not the one you get from computer PSU right?

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Barnack" (Jul 4th 2018, 1:07pm)

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 1:30pm

When you remove the yellow cover the controller board will almost fall out alone.

The power from the PCs PSU is DC.

Barnack

Junior Member

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 1:32pm

the Yellow cover is the piece i'm failing at removing, not the board

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 2:32pm

On the left and right there are two recess. Place a flat screwdriver between the cover and the case at one recess while pushing the cover away from the case. As soon as one latch is open it should be easy to remove the whole cover.

Barnack

Junior Member

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 3:36pm

Ok i've succeeded. But there's no brownish part in the board

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Barnack" (Jul 4th 2018, 3:39pm)

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Wednesday, July 4th 2018, 4:54pm

Could be damaged anyway or something else on the board is faulty. Based on your description the mentioned resistor was a good starting point as possible root of the problem.

Barnack

Junior Member

Saturday, July 7th 2018, 7:54pm

ok thanks for all the answers

Barnack

Junior Member

Friday, July 13th 2018, 7:51pm

When you remove the controller board you can run the pump with a 9-12 volt AC (not DC!) power supply.



Greetings,
can you tell more specifically how many volt and amphere should i look for?

Between the colors in the picture which ones should i use to power the pump, which is - and which is +?

I'm guessing Yellow/red is to power the pump and green/blue is to control it? Not sure though.
Which color is what?

P.s. i know i could just buy replacement parts, but right now i'm going to have to move soon, still i need my computer for work... until now i used some lent laptops, now i need mine specifically.

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Friday, July 13th 2018, 9:26pm

The pump has only two wires. They should be both black, on older pumps they were brown and blue if I remember correctly. Anyway, it does not matter because the pump runs with alternating current (=AC) so their is no specific polarity.

Are we talking about the same pump? The amount of wires and also the colors that you mention make no sense for aquastream pumps.

As PSU I would say you should get something with at least 2.5A.

Barnack

Junior Member

Friday, July 13th 2018, 9:42pm

sorry i didnt realize my picture didnt upload, i added colors in paint to distinguish the various wires.
But from what you've said i guess you're referring to red and yellow
Barnack has attached the following image:
  • untitled.png

Shoggy

Sven - Admin

Friday, July 13th 2018, 10:35pm

Red and yellow are for the power supply. As said the pump works with AC. So if you use it without the controller board and connect it directly to a AC power supply, then the polarity does not matter.

Green and blue are the wires of the temperature sensor. Can be only used with the controller board. The polarity does not matter again.

Barnack

Junior Member

Friday, July 13th 2018, 10:56pm

perfect, thanks again!

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