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send a Mail to info@aqua-computer.deit's just the thin plastic screen in front of the LCD that's cracked, so it's a visual flaw, not a functional one luckily.
Yes I am aware of this, there just isn't room anywhere in my system to make that work.I am not sure if the outer surface is part of the actual display or just a piece of plastic in front of it.\
Based on looking at your picture, you should be aware that for best accuracy, Aquacomputer recommends having straight sections of tubing before and after the flow meter. Having hard bends or 90° fittings too close to the flow meter can cause turbulence which can affect accuracy. I think they recommend at least 10cm (4-in) of straight tubing on each side of the device. I thought they stated this in the owner's manual but I just checked and do not see it. If I can find where they said this I will post it.
https://imgur.com/a/JNeE3zxI am not sure if the outer surface is part of the actual display or just a piece of plastic in front of it.\
Based on looking at your picture, you should be aware that for best accuracy, Aquacomputer recommends having straight sections of tubing before and after the flow meter. Having hard bends or 90° fittings too close to the flow meter can cause turbulence which can affect accuracy. I think they recommend at least 10cm (4-in) of straight tubing on each side of the device. I thought they stated this in the owner's manual but I just checked and do not see it. If I can find where they said this I will post it.
This is only required for the MPS Flow Sensors.I never did find where Aquacomputer recommends the 10cm of straight tubing on each side of the flow meter.
Zitat
For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings.
Wow. OK - I stand corrected. I thought this recommendation applied to the High Flow series too. When I was searching for this, I found several posts in various forums saying that Aquacomputer recommends 10cm of straight tubing on each side the the High Flow Next. Turns out its 5cm, not 10cm, and its for the MPS flow sensors, not the High Flow sensors. OP - my apologies for spreading incorrect information.
The High Flow Sensors has a spinning wheel to measure the flow, it does not need the straight tubing.
Ah, so I should be good as set up then?The High Flow Sensors has a spinning wheel to measure the flow, it does not need the straight tubing.For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings.
Agreed, it had me curious as too what it based it on. I tried making a fill test but that just results in a "critical leakage" alarm. 100l/h would be way to low, especially at 100% pump. Even 200l/h is a bit low I think.i wonder how a leakshield could measure flow without touching water. I'd trust the High flow next instead.
The 1500L/h spec is if you connect a flow meter between the inlet and outlet of the pump. Once you start adding waterblocks and radiators, it drops a lot obviously. These are restrictive parts.
But a good waterblock will be pretty happy at somewhat low flows, and more flow will only marginally decrease temp. You can test that later on by just stress testing your computer and slowly reducing pump speed. You'll stumble on a speed range where the temps increase very quick, and that will be your lowest pump speed that you shouldn't go below.
Just as an example, on my personal rig, temps are pretty stable above 70l/h. Once i go below, the GPU temp shoots up by 10 - 15° very quickly.
Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 1 mal editiert, zuletzt von »Steiner_SE« (14. April 2023, 00:35)
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