Nice list,
For the pump, you can actually power a D5 (which is what that pump really is) from any one of the Fan connectors on the Aquaero 5 if you have the water block. You will need an adapter cable in any case, one like this should work http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info…roducts_id=2345 (Shoggy, can you please verify this? Also, a better discription on the Web Shop page should help cut down on questions and increase sales a bit. )
Personally, unless there is a good reason, I suggest getting the AquaComputer USB D5. It gets the motor power directly from the power supply thru a 4 pin molex, and the extra temperature sensor comes in handy. It is mechanically the same pump as the one you asked about, just different electronics. And you can get whatever kind of top cover you want. Also, you do not need a Power Adjust for that pump, it connects to the AQ5 thru the High speed Aquabus. On the other hand, AquaComputer does not provide any speed control in the software (yet) for their pump. For some reason, they do not feel it is a necessary feature. While I agree that from a practical, thermodynamic and Hydrodynamic view point they are correct that it makes very little practical difference what the pump speed is, Every computer geek likely to buy their product wants to control the pump speed. In any event, You can run a D5 class pump directly off the fan header of the AQ5 and control speed like it was a fan, or you can save a fan channel on the AQ5 and run it off a Poweradjust 2, and control it as if it were a fan thru the Aquabus. (The PA2 shows up in Aquasuite 2012 as an extra fan channel.) Whichever way you pick, I strongly suggest getting a 4 pin Aquabus extension cable. You can plug the three pin cables supplied by AquaComputer with almost all of their goodies into the four pin cable just fine, but some things, like the USB flow meters, need power from the AQ5, which is what that fourth wire is for. The cable is cheap and gives a lot more options on putting things in your case. It might not be a bad idea to get the Aquabus four wire splitter at the same time. Just in case. Four wire cables are hard to find at the local computer store, three wire fan splitters and extensions are easy.
.
For the big radiator, use a 3 way splitter on each side, and then a 2 way splitter to connect them, result, six fans, one input connector! Just make sure only ONE fan per channel supply RPM sensor. However, if you get a Power Adjust STANDARD, (Ultra is not necessary in your case) you can run a set of three fans on two channels of the Aquaero 5, and just set both channels to the same temperature controller on the Aquaero 5, that way they will be in sync. It does not matter if the splitters, or fans for that matter, have three wires or four. Four wire fans are PWM types, but the connectors fit on the AQ5 just fine, and PWM fans run very happy on variable voltage, and sometimes a lot more silently.
.
Inline temperature sensors work just fine with any G1/4 threaded fittings. Just make sure they are 10Kohm types. I use inline sensors because they are easy and do a better job of responding to water temperature changes. Just screw in the sensor to the water block, and then the Bitspower fitting screws into the sensor. I use a sensor on the Radiator inlet to control radiator fan speed, but I use CPU outlet temp to control any alarm actions. For extra Bling, I have a Radiator outlet temperature and GPU outlet temps as well. That lets me use the power measurement feature of Aquasuite 2012 just for grins.
.
Which brings us to the flow meter question.
.
Which flow meter to get depends on the pump, and on the resistance to flow of your cooling loop water blocks, and on the size of your water hose. It is almost impossiable to figure out correctly in advance. Yes, the pump is rated at 1200Lph, but that is with nothing connectd at the outlet of the pump and a large diameter inlet hose. Just connecting six feet of 10mm Id hose, a CPU water block and radiator will cut the flow down below 400 Lph. My personal system has a D5 pump, 10 feet of 6mm id hose, two radiators, two GPU blocks, a CPU block, Northbridge and Voltage regulator block, all of these connected in series, and all I can get at Max pump speed is 60 Lph. I have parts on order to split things into two loops, and I expect my total flow to double because of that.
Shoggy has suggested a MPS 400 in other places for a D5 pump in the typical system, and I am for the most part totally in agreement. However, the MPS 400 is good only down to 80 Lph at the low end which means that for my system, it would not work since my flow is 60 Lpm. (Yes, I know I can get more flow with bigger tubing, I have my reasons, so there! ). As a result, IF you are going to use large size hose, and IF the loop is nice and simple, go with the MPS 400. (Just don't forget to get the flow adapter fitting extension (art. no. 63035).
Personnally, I think the High Flow USB version, mechanical type is a more flexable option. It is good down to 40 Lph, and does not have a max that needs to be worried about. Unfortunatly, it is also bit more expensive, but in stock at the moment. In either case, the flow meters come supplied with a three wire cable, but both of them need a FOUR wire Aquabus cable unless the USB connection is also used. So get a Four wire Aquabus cable, and connect the High Flow USB to the other leg of the Four Wire Aquabus splitter cable I suggested earlier. This will allow for messing around changing and adding things to the system and still give a flow reading you can use forever.

The only thing I sugest you get in addition is a res level sensor of some kind. The AquaComputer tubemeter is a nifty thing, but it has been a pain to actually use, (The connector keeps coming off and it needs a four wire Aquabus or USB connector.) I sugest the Mps 40, or Mps Delta 40, or get the Aquacomputer Borosilicate Nano coated res and the D5 adapter with the Mps level sensor built in and be done with it. Just make sure that if you go with the AC res, you get a second four wire Y splitter and Aquabus cable.
.
Oh yea, the other thing is to get double the amount of hose you think you need. If this is your first water cooling build. You will wind up changing the hose a lot at first.
Also, I would consider the Aquaero 5 PRO vs XT. The XT has nicer looks and comes with the IR remote, but the touch sensative buttons cause problems for some people, the four extra buttons are not really necessary with the IR remote, (Available seperatly) and the Aquasuite 2012 is easier to use that the AQ5 buttons anyway. Since you are getting the AQ5 water block, the heat sink size does not matter.

Have fun!.

Nice and simple start to water cooled computers. Just like the one I put together for my wife, except for the MB cooling anyway, and you are useing larger tubung than She got. You should be able to get 2 Lpm easy with that steup, which means you can slow down the pump and not run it at max.
.
A Standard cooling fan has three wires, one ground, one 12 vdc power, and one for fan RPM signal output from the fan. A Standard fan is controlled by changing the voltage on the 12 vdc line, which is what the Aquaero does. A Fan that is speed controled via PWM has four wires, the extra wire is a speed control signal to the fan itself. In a PWM setup, the 12 vdc is constant at 12 v, and the PWM controller in the fan just turns it on and off to the fan motor really fast to adjust the fan speed. The Aquaero 5 has this type of control as an option of fan channel 4. The problem with PWM control is that sometimes the controler causes a Humming noise seperate from the fan blade noise. Also the PWM fans are more expensive. A lot of fan controllers on the market use PWM to control fans because that reduces the amount of heat generated in the controller. The Aquaero controls fan speed by the electronic equavalent of a variable resistor on the fan control channels. A three wire fan is speed controlled by reducing the voltage on the 12 vdc wire. this means that in order to run the fan at a 50% speed setting, the fan my actually be getting only 7 or 8 volts. The slower a fan runs, the more heat is generated by the "Variable Resistors" because the "Variable resistors" are reducing the 12 volts down to 6 or 7 or whatever and this results in a lot of heat generated in the controller. The problem with variable voltage control of fan speed is that some fans need a higher voltage to start turning than others, and that most fans will keep spinning at a much lower voltage than what it takes to start them spinning. In other words, a fan might keep spinning at 700 RPM with 5 volts, but it might not start until voltage gets up to 7. The AquaComputer guys have put something they call "Start boost" into the Aquaero to get around this. What startboost does is let the Aquaero give a full 12 volts to the fan when the fan is started for a short period of time, just to get them going, then it cuts back voltage to reduce the fan speed to whatever is required. (The actual start boost voltage and the time it is applied is adjustable in the software for the Aquaero.)
Anyway, the problem with more than one fan running on a splitter to the same fan control channel is that if two or more fans have the third wire fan speed signal connected thru the y splitter, both fans give the controller a spped signal, and since no two fans spin at exactly the same speed for a given voltage, this causes confusion in the controller electronics, and you get a weird speed reading. A Lot of three wire fan splitters have a three wire plug on each fan connector, but only one of the three wire plugs actually has three wires attached. That plug is usually marked with a tag saying this fan provides speed the signal. So depending on which fan splitter you get, just make sure that only one fan is giving the signal to the Aquaero. It does not matter which one. You can even use a Four wire fan splitter cable, the plugs are standardized and only fit one way so no damage is done.
.
If you are not getting the AquaComputer D5 pump you really dont need the Aquabus y splitter cable, just the four wire Aquabus extension. The Y splitter was so you can connect the flow sensor and the pump to the high speed Aquabus. With just the High Flow USB flow sensor, it gets connected to the High Speed Aquabus on the Aquaero 5 with a four wire Aquabus cable. The DDC pump cable goes on fan 4 controller conection on the Aquaero 5.
A lot this will make more sense when you have the hardware in front of you. Good Luck!

6-1 splitter pre wired?
.
Heck yes! KISS works.

Sure it is, just cut the wire that has the speed signal you don't want.
Problem is I dont know which one that is, (Yellow I think?), so just buy it pre made.
The thing is, while it is interesting to cut and paste wires together, if you mess it up, well, Smoke Test FAIL comes to mind in a $2,000 toy? BAD!