Zitat von »Remayz«

they are just LEDs.
what makes them dimmable is the controller. digital or analog, you can adjust brightness of course, with either farbwerk or farbwerk360.

the diming issue is with house lights where each bulb has its own power supply built in, and you can't reduce brightness by reducing the voltage with a traditionnal dimmer, that will just give you a flashy light show at best.
Here it's totally different.

Zitat von »Remayz«

the splitty 12 is only a splitter, it has no electronics in it, it's not a controller.

Its main purpose is to power the LEDs from SATA (direct from the power supply) and not from the controller.
controllers have a maximum power rating per output. if you exceed it, it shuts down. the Splitty12 allows you to have each output powered by SATA, and the controller only sends RGB data to the LEDs, basically gettting rid of the power limit.

you have data going from the Farbwerk360 to the splitty
Power going from the PSU to the Splitty

And the splitty powers your device's leds from the PSU and splits the RGB data to all the outputs.


it's similar to a powered USB hub, where the 5V power comes from the little power brick, and the computer only takes care of data.

Zitat von »Speedy-VI«

Zitat von »P.C.Zen«

So...it's possible to send RGB data from the FarbWerk, to the Splitty12, to control ARGB devices...?...or, do I need the FarbWerk360 to control ARGB? (& the FarbWerk to control RGB?)

Or, in other words: I wouldn't be able to control ARGB LED's via the Splitty12 using a regular FarbWerk; I'd need the FarbWerk360 to do that?

Edit: Okay, so, I looked at the product pages and it seems the regular FarbWerk isn't compatible with the Splitty12? The Splitty12 only has an input for ARGB and the regular FarbWerk only outputs via an RGB header.

Yes you need the Farbwerk360 to control ARGB 5vdc LED's. The Farbwerk is for 12vdc LEDs and will not work with ARGB LEDs. The Splitty12 Active is an ARGB device and will work with the Farbwerk360 but not the Farbwerk. Even though it says "Active", that really just means that it has it's own SATA power connection, so the LEDs get their power from the SATA connection rather than the USB connection. Its really a passive device meaning it does not have a microcontroller in it like the Octo and Farbwerk360. It is an ARGB splitter which connectors for Corsair ARGB fans, RGBpx LEDs, or ARGB devices with "standard" ARGB connectors (sometimes called DRGB) which are those horrible 4-pin connectors with only 3 pins used. Its a terrible connector with almost zero insertion friction. It's really ease for an ARGB cable to just fall out of the header it's plugged into. It's also easy to mix up a 12vdc 4-pin connector with a 5vdc 4-pin connector (with only 3 pins used). Many have fried their ARGB LEDs by plugging them into a 12vdc RGB header. There is nothing that physically prevents you from doing this. It's a shame that such a crappy connector became the standard for ARGB/DRGB. The Aquacomputer RGBpx connector is an improvement but you do need to be careful with them. They are quite small and easily damaged. They are really Molex Pico-Blade connectors.

The Farbwerk360 has 4 RGBpx ports that work like the RGBpx ports on the Octo. There are some differences in the Farbwerk360 RGBpx ports verses the Octo RGBpx ports. The RGBpx ports on the Farbwerk360 allow adjustment of transparency of RGB effects layers so you can have one or more lighting effects "bleed through" another. The Octo does not have this feature. Also, the Octo is limited to 6 LED controllers (effects) per output while the Farbwerk360 can have up to 20 LED controllers across the 4 outputs. The Farbwerk360 also allows up to 60 Multi-Assign LED controllers which means the same controller can be assigned to multiple ports. I thin the RGBpx port on the High Flow Next and similar products has the same limitations as the RGBpx ports on the Octo. This is all detailed in the owner's manuals for these products. I recommend downloading and reading them to gain a clear understanding of what these devices can do, and what their limitations are.

Hope this was helpful.

Zitat von »Remayz«

Zitat von »Remayz«

and things will make more sense once you get Aquasuite going and look through the various pages.
it's hard to grasp it when you can't fiddle with settings yourself

It can be used very simply, or be made as complex and in depth as you desire as Speedy explained.

Zitat von »Speedy-VI«

Yes they are complex devices, but that is why they are so powerful. Aquasuite (AQS) allows you to do some very complex things with the sensor data. You can perform mathematical, logic, and statistical calculations on the sensor data. So you can add various temps together, or subtract them, average them, etc. For example, in my system I have a coolant temp sensor, 2 case air temp sensors and 2 ambient temp sensors. My fans are controlled by the temperature difference between the coolant and the average value of the ambient temp sensors. You can make a virtual sensor whose value depends on CPU and GPU temps, The possibilities are endless. The great thing about Aquacomputer controllers like the Oct, Quadro, Farbwerk360, etc. is that they have microcontrollers in them. Once you configure them, program instructions are downloaded to the devices. They can then run their own little programs without AQS even running. Some more advanced functions that involve virtual sensors or imported data do require AQS to be running. If you plan carefully, you can set things up so the most basic functions can operate independently of AQS. For example, my Octo controls and monitors my pump. If the pump speed goes below a minimum value, an Alarm is tripped that will cause the Octo to immediately shut down the computer via an Aquacomputer #53216 alarm cable. Since the pump data is local to the Octo, this alarm will trip even if AQS is not running. Features like this are what make AQS so much more powerful than something like Corsair iCue (which is a bloated, buggy mess).

It can get complicated, so take your time, read the owner's manuals, and check your parts list carefully - especially special cables and adapters. There are a lot of cables that look really similar but are not the same. Finally, use this forum to get advice and help. https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/ is also a good source for information and help. There is also an unofficial Aquacomputer Discord (https://discord.gg/tYpExgbv) but its not too active (yet). I am hoping it picks up. To see some really interesting and somewhat complex things you can do in AQS, check out KayBee Tech on Youtube. He has only done a few videos so far but some of the things he does in AQS are really clever. It will show you the power of this program.

Have fun and Good Luck!

Zitat von »Speedy-VI«

Zitat von »P.C.Zen«

Zitat von »Speedy-VI«

Zitat von »P.C.Zen«

Zitat von »Speedy-VI«

Zitat von »P.C.Zen«

I've no idea (re. Gen 2 RGB)...it's just what it said on the box. I assumed that was the problem when it didn't work...?...but it turned out to be a bad ARGB header.

I keep thinking RGBpx Splitty 12 Active is like the Octo (plugging in via a USB) but...that's the Farbwerk.

Correct. The Splitty12 Active is just a "dumb" ARGB splitter. It provides SATA based power for the LEDs but there is no microcontroller on board, and hence no USB connection.

Zitat von »P.C.Zen«

You wrote that I'd need these for the Farbwerk:

RGBpx-Anschlusskabel, Länge 50 cm (aquacomputer.de) & RGBpx adapter for components with motherboard header (aquacomputer.de)

...is that to plug it into the motherboard?

Yes you would need the #53282 to connect a standard ARGB female in-line connector to an RGBpx port (via an RGBpx cable). To go the other way you need the My board's an MSI Z490 Godlike. It's a shame that the ARGB header is non-functional.
I looked up your mobo. MSI's site is annoying (like all the others) but I found the list of RGB headers. It has 1 x 4-pin RGB LED connector (I think this one is 12VDC so DO NOT PLUG THE FAN RGB INTO THIS ONE), 2 x 3-pin "JRAINBOW" LED connectors (This is the MSI name for ARGB. These are the ones you want to use), and 1 x Corsair LED connector. (This is standard ARGB, but they provided a mate for Corsair's proprietary RGB connectors. It's still ARGB (5VDC). Remember that MSI calls standard 5VDC ARGB "JRAINBOW" and 12VDC analog RGB "JRGB".

Zitat von »P.C.Zen«

I might try it with the RGBpx Splitty 12 Active I have here, to see if the connector still carries the data.

You could try putting a Splitty 12 Active in there and see if the fan LEDs start working. If the "JRAINBOW ARGB port on the mobo is bad, then it's bad. There are 2 of them so try the other one. A Splitty12 Active is really only required if you have a lot (up to 12) of the same ARGB fans (or whatever) that you want to all do the same RGB pattern. If you just have a few fans you can get smaller splitters. I don't know if your Cooler Master fans have ARGB loops like the Lion Li Uni-fans or if each one has it's own ARGB connector (like Corsair). They do show a retention clip that holds the ARGB connectors together. If they daisy-chain, you could just loop them together and plug the first one into a JRAINBOW port on the mobo (if they are working), and use MSI Mystic Light (which I have heard is horrible but have never used myself). If not, and you feel that the Farbwerk360 is overkill, they do have the Farbwerk Nano. It comes with one RGBpx LED strip and all the cables you need to connect it. You could hang the fan ARGB off the end of the RGBpx LED strip but you will need and RGBpx cable and adapter to do it (and total LED count must be under 91). If you get either of the Farbwerks, you will need Aquasuite to configure it. After its set up, you can shut down Aquasuite if you want (unless you are doing LED color changes based on a virtual sensor). I would give you mobo JRAINBOW ports another try first, if you are OK using Mystic Light to control everything.