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Fill Level Sensor:
The MPS Manual covers installation of the fill level sensor in section "6.3. Installation as a fill level sensor", and calibration in section "12.3. Sensor configuration fill level sensor".
You need the Fill level sensor connected by USB, and then it is four steps (do not adjust the calibration curve):
1) set the device type (Level sensor Δ 500)
2) enter the Maximum fill level in mm (this is the reservoir height from bottom to top)
3) enter the Current fill level in mm (This is from the bottom of the reservoir to the coolant level, without foam)
4) click "calibrate"
The coolant level in the reservoir will read as a percentage.
[attach]5495[/attach]
You can install the Pressure equalization Membrane when assembling the reservoir and it does not need attention after that.
The membrane simply allows air to pass through, keeping the top of the reservoir at local atmosphere pressure, which is then the same as the Low port of the sensor.
I am about to start a new build with an Aqualis XT Reservoir and have been following this thread. I have some questions and comments regarding this calibration method.The result of that "calibration" isn't even close to the real values! It works for the level you have, but the rest is a wild guess that depends on the size of the tank, the hight above the sensor and probably a thng or two I haven't even thought about.
I found that you can do it quiteceasily if you depressurize the system between each meassurement.
1. Let the pumps run and fill to the desired level.
2. Remove the power cable.
3. Equalize the pressure. You have to open the highest point of your loop as well as the top of the tank.
4. Wait for the raw value to stabilize (a couple.of minutes).
5. Close all open points.
6. Connect the cable.
7. Wait for the raw value to stabilize (as long as needed, I waited 10 minutes, but I think 5 is enough).
Repeat at intervals, the more the better. I did it at every 50mm from 50mm to 350mm. The result will show you a completely different result than the auto-calibration!
I am about to start a new build with an Aqualis XT Reservoir and have been following this thread. I have some questions and comments regarding this calibration method.The result of that "calibration" isn't even close to the real values! It works for the level you have, but the rest is a wild guess that depends on the size of the tank, the hight above the sensor and probably a thng or two I haven't even thought about.
I found that you can do it quiteceasily if you depressurize the system between each meassurement.
1. Let the pumps run and fill to the desired level.
2. Remove the power cable.
3. Equalize the pressure. You have to open the highest point of your loop as well as the top of the tank.
4. Wait for the raw value to stabilize (a couple.of minutes).
5. Close all open points.
6. Connect the cable.
7. Wait for the raw value to stabilize (as long as needed, I waited 10 minutes, but I think 5 is enough).
Repeat at intervals, the more the better. I did it at every 50mm from 50mm to 350mm. The result will show you a completely different result than the auto-calibration!
1. Which "power cable" is removed? The Pump or the Reservoir? Removing the Pump power with the system on will obviously result in overheat problems.
2. "open the highest point of your loop" will not be possible. The highest point will be one of the top radiators, which are filled higher than any ports on the radiator.
I think I'm missing something, but cannot figure it out.
RodeoGeorge
I'll try to explain my loop situation.
1. Main power cable. To make sure everything is off.
2. As long as the power is off the pumps are off and there is no pressure, making it possible to open the loop at a point where it's no fluid, the top of the loop.
I do the w/c with a laptop before powering up the system for the first time. That way, any mistake, leak or whatever wont destroy the MB or any other electronic part. The fluid will most probably be so close to dstilled water that no shortening will happend in case of a leak, but better safe than sorry.
I'll try to explain my loop situation.
1. Main power cable. To make sure everything is off.
2. As long as the power is off the pumps are off and there is no pressure, making it possible to open the loop at a point where it's no fluid, the top of the loop.
I do the w/c with a laptop before powering up the system for the first time. That way, any mistake, leak or whatever wont destroy the MB or any other electronic part. The fluid will most probably be so close to dstilled water that no shortening will happend in case of a leak, but better safe than sorry.
When the pumps run, they fill the loop, including the top radiators. This puts the fluid level ABOVE any of the ports on the radiators. If I open any of the radiator ports, the fluid will drain out of the radiator down to the port level.
That of course will create a mess, with the possibility of component damage.
RodeoGeorge
Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 1 mal editiert, zuletzt von »Jakusonfire« (23. November 2015, 12:45)
You guys are making it far more difficult than it need be. The most accurate calibration of any mps device is achieved by not using the calibrate button at all, but by manually adjusting the calibration curve. The calibration button applies a mathematical formula to adjust the curve but that is not always the best or most accurate real curve.
You simply start with a low fill level or flow rate, note the unscaled value, then progress at 5 or 10% increments. That will give you your real world curve.
If your loop is constructed right and the sensors installed properly there should be no need to be opening any radiator ports at all.
I'm doing it that way just to be 100% certain that the mps gets the correct data to work from. I've ordered a new pressure equalizer to recheck my results as they seemed a bit off what I expected and that I might have inflicted some damage to it. I also swapped mps as I had one that I bought by mstake.
I'm doing it that way just to be 100% certain that the mps gets the correct data to work from. I've ordered a new pressure equalizer to recheck my results as they seemed a bit off what I expected and that I might have inflicted some damage to it. I also swapped mps as I had one that I bought by mstake.
The pressure equalizer is simply a membrane that allows air to pass between the reservoir bubble and atmosphere, thus providing local atmospheric pressure to the reservoir air bubble.
If you want to test it's functionality (i.e. not blocked), you can simply remove it to give the same result.
Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 2 mal editiert, zuletzt von »Jakusonfire« (24. November 2015, 11:50)
What exact sensor model are you using and how is it connected to the reservoir?
Some of the posts previously it's a little confusing as to which device we are taking about. Unless you have a res that is 5 metres tall I don't see how you could be maxing out an mps 500 sensor
It sound's almost like you have the pressure sensor connected to the loop instead of just the reservoir.
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