Hi !

Alles Äpfel und Birnen die ihr da miteinander vergleicht.
Mobo Sensoren sind ungenau !...nein ,sogar echter Müll ! Erstens das und zweitens kann man dann nicht auch noch 3 verschiedene Systeme miteinander vergleichen !
Das Einzige was wichtig ist und richtig ist ,ist die Wassertemp zu messen !

Ok Stefan, aber ich kann auch nicht mehr sagen, als da steht. und das war gefragt !!! Dann wünsch ich mir für die nächste Aquastream-Rev. einen integrierten Temp-fühler. Aber 'n guten und nicht so'n "Müll" der auf den Boards verbaut wird...

Es gibt doch bereits nen Tempfühler für P&C.
Außerdem tuts da auch ein normales Thermometer.

Hallo,
da muss ich auch mein Senf zur Sache geben.
Also bei mir schaut es so aus:
P4 3.2 GHz gekühlt mit EVO,
x800xt pe mit Twinplex,
NB mit Twinplex,
selbstgebauter HD Kupferkühler,
420W selbstgebautes WaKü NT.
Big Tower, Radi 240er im Deckel mit 2 Papst auf ca.7V.
Keine sonstigen Lüfter.

Unter dauerhafter Last und Zimmertemp. von 22°C sehen die Temps so aus:
Wasser 39°C
CPU 56°C
GPU 48°C
Case 33°C

Alle Temps +/- 1°C

Würd gerne wissen was ihr zu den Temperaturen meint.

Also wassertemp würd ich sagen passt dafür dass du noch nen netzteil mit im Kreislauf hast
Aber mit der Wassertemp heizt du deine HDDs mehr auf als dass du die kühlst ;D

ja, das Gefühl hab ich auch  ;D

ps: als ich den HD Kühler bombenfest eingebaut habe hatte ich noch P4 2.4GHz, und ATI 9700 pro. Da lag Wassertemp max bei 34°C.

Und ich würd vorne wenigstens einen lüfter @ 5 Volt reinbauen dein Case is ja innen so heiß wies bei uns schon lange nimmer war!
Alles was da nicht gewaküed wird erstickt ja

Lüfter--->Lärm >
Ausserdem hab ich ja 2 Jahre Garantie bzw Gewärleistung auf die Hardware, da kann nix schiefgehen ;D

Zitat von »Kanalisator«

Lüfter--->Lärm >
Ausserdem hab ich ja 2 Jahre Garantie bzw Gewärleistung auf die Hardware, da kann nix schiefgehen ;D

Naja Die lautstärke addiert sich ja nicht und da du eh 2x 7Volt im deckel hast hörst du einen lüfter der leiser ist als die anderen beiden nicht!

Klar die gewährleistung hast 2 Jahre ;D

Zitat von »maze84«

Ok Stefan, aber ich kann auch nicht mehr sagen, als da steht. und das war gefragt !!! Dann wünsch ich mir für die nächste Aquastream-Rev. einen integrierten Temp-fühler. Aber 'n guten und nicht so'n "Müll" der auf den Boards verbaut wird...

Deine CPU Temp wird ~10-15°C höher sein, die NB Temp auch in etwa 10°C, Graka Temp hingegen kommt hin.

mfg

Hi b4LrOn:

First of all I want to say something the people here at the forum have mentioned already: The MBM readings and the motherboard sensors aren´t the most precise way to know the temps reached in any part of the watercooled rig.
The better way is using some digital display with good temperature sensors that would give you a more accurate reading of the temps in the rig.

With 3 radiators and 1 pump you surely have to obtain better results than the ones you´ve posted here. I would give you some indications of what you could do to improve the system.

Split the watercooled rig in 2 circuits, because the conection of three radiators in series isn´t the best way to obtain better results off of the radiators. The last radiator in the circuit wouldn´t disipate all of its W power. The radiators would have a much more better performance if the water reaching it is relatively hot.

One circuit could me made from the pump to the Evo240 and from here to the CPU block and then to the reservoir.
The second circuit goes from an Y splitter just before the entrance of the Evo240 radiator to the Evo120 radiator located in the upper zone of the case, from here to the chipset and VGA blocks, then the another Evo120 radiator located on the base of the case and then to the reservoir.
Don´t worry about the diference of temps in the two circuits, because the hotter one would be cooled with the water of the second one and the final result would be better than the one you are reaching right now.

This method surely would improve the temps in the rig.

Other ideas could be using another pump for the second circuit i´ve indicated before (this is only neccesary if the CPU block needs high water pressure to perform better). So the pump you already have now only would pump water to the CPU block. If you choose this solution you could conect the two Evo120´s in serial just before entering the chipset and VGA blocks.

Another thing that is making the temps in your rig being so high is the using of too much of 90º angles. Try to reduce this ones. Another bad thing is the big distance between the pump and the two radiators located in the upper part of the case. Think that the pump must pump the water up there, and much of the water pressure you´re needing for making the CPU block performing better, you are loosing it here.

I hope the indications made by the rest of the users and this ones could help you.

And now some things I would tell here, and I hope this wouldn´t be taken in the bad way, is the following: If you use watercooled systems try to reach temps around the 30-35º barrier in a "non-modificated/oced-system", if you are reaching temps like 45-50º with watercooling, something in the rig isn´t placed well or isn´t choiced well.
If you like 50º temps use conventional colling (Air colling, less expensive and better to care for). All depends, of course, if you want to reach a high performance pc or you´re right with a low noise system.

It´s only my position in WC. I know that most of you aren´t in the same boat than I, but I think it´s something to deal with, before choosing to board on the watercooling world .

I hope you can resolve the problems with your rig.

Cheers,
friku.

Temperaturen um die 40° ohne und 50° mit Last waren mit meinem 1800er normal. Gab auch keine Probleme damit. Nur denke ich, dass auch eine Vielfache Radiatorfläche nicht so viel helfen kann, wenn die CPU einfach heizt!

mfg.

Hm, so bigger the radiator is (if it´s a good one, of course), so more the W disipation is, so the temps on the CPU die would be lower.

All depends on the CPU block, tube lenght, pump used, etc. too.

The radiators used for passive cooling, for example, are very big in comparison for those ones planed to used in an active watercooled rig. So a bigger one always (or at least sometimes, depending on manufacturer [see specifications of W disipated]) would work better (in temperature terms) as a more little one.

Some things more to have in mind are the situations of the fans on the radiator. I´ve purchased some time ago 2 360Evo´s, and i´ve seen that the gap between the fans and the fins on the radiator is ~1cm. deep. On some studies made over several radiators it has been came to the conclusion that a gap around ~3-4cm. would be better if the fans are mounted the way they pull air through them. b4LrOn, if your fans are mounted on this Evo´s throwing air over them, try to make a shroud to move them apart the radiator a distance between 3-4cm., or mount them sucking air through them. This could improve the temps as well. The reason of this improvement is that if the distance between radiator-fans is too short, and the flow of air is relatively high, this could produce turbulences on the fin surface preventing the air to flow easily through the radiator. The "sucking" method, doesn´t need so much distance between fins and fans, because the air comes from a zone with much more space, and the turbulences are smaller or doesn´t exist (it depends on the place the radiator is mounted).

There are many factors that could improve our rig, I wouldn´t say that this improvements would be shocking, but it could be this little ºC we´re looking at.

I´ve been looking at many pics of WC rigs at this forum, and I haven´t seen many that uses radiator shrouds, and I could tell you that I´ve checked that the use of a shroud is very beneficial, indeed in a small case it could be the solution.

Cheers,
friku.