This leakshield and loop has me seriously confused as to how to find a pressure leak when you arent leaking any liquids. I know they sell leak-finding tools and such; that listen for the high-pitched frequencies these leaks emit, but I fear that it would have trouble next to the Noctua fans. Granted I could just power the LeakShield on by itself and see, but that's the expensive way to find such a leak. Is there anything easier I can do to find a leak that isn't leaking fluid? I thought about soapy distilled water as you do with a tire, I assume if the leak was that bad it would be spraying coolant no? Just has me so confused as to what constitutes a leak? The leakage indicator jumps all over the place it said I had a -28.3 lph leak then a minute later it was -440 lph leak. Not a single drop of coolant has leaked out of this machine mind you? So I'm sort of at a loss and need some help is there anything I can do to better seal it? I use fast tape from home depot which works wonders and I use o-ring grease the exact lubricant that compressed o-rings are supposed to get. Yet it still reads I have a leak and the alarm goes off like crazy? Is there anything I'm not thinking of here that I should be doing? Hopefully, someone on here has been doing this longer than me and I'm just foolishly overlooking something?

The loop consists of:
1x AC Ultitube150 reservoir
1x AC Aqualis D5 Topper
2x next D5 pumps set to 44% which is like 3350rpm which is what was recommended to me by Sven think they said under 45 can't remember but it's close to whatever they said.
2x next High flow sensors
1x High Flow 2
2x Flow spinner 1 x alphacool w/rpm
1x ek black flow meter
1x Ice Man flow meter
1x AC FIlter
1x Aquaero 6 Lt Block and Aquaero 6 Pro
1x Aquaero 6 Lt Block and Aquaero 6 LT
Both aquaero's are in the loop.
Ek velocity cpu block
Ek 3080 fe gpu block
Ek 14mm fittings
Bitspower offset fittings as ek just released those new offset fittings.
Byski lake blue extension fittings 30mm
Corsair Satin Trans 14mm Acrylic Tubing
Ek Coolstream 280mm rad
Alphacool nexxos monsta 420mm
I've triple-checked all the monsta's plugs as it has many; one I use as a drain. Nothing is leaking as far as I can tell with the naked eye.
Also the does have alot in it I figured I wanted to slow the pumps down and it's quite effective at that.

I listed everything I can think of b/'c maybe it's one of the parts that are doing this I honestly have no idea.
I also
The only o-ring I didn't lubricate was the d5 pump o-rings not sure if I should or not? Maybe someone wiser than I knows that answer but I doubt it has to do with my leak. In all seriousness, though I am asking for help as I want to find the source of this apparent pressure leak I have. I also turned the leakshield on very tightly as I thought maybe it was its threads that were leaking? I didn't tape the threads which I actually may do this afternoon lol just to see if that stops it? I've had similar situations happen before with an ek leak testing tool said I had a leak and it was the tool itself leaking. Hopefully, someone else on here has a better idea than that...

If you guys need screenshots or anything just ask I'll post them.

It might not matter but I was using trans tubing a few weeks ago and I had the same exact results lol the satin tubing is something I just did last week. I'm going to inspect each 90 with a magnifying glass so to speak. I made sure that any 90 I thought may have pressure on it I added a zip tie just to make sure it had support. Its completely hidden so It didn't matter. What do you think the best way to test it is? Should I turn all fans Off kill the computer completely and just apply power to the leak shield and try to get it to build max pressure in a test?

Zitat von »Speedy-VI«

This may be a stupid idea, but often the best way to find a problem is by halving the possibilities each time until its located. That is quite a long (and impressive) list of hardware you got there so your loop has a lot of devices, fittings, and tubing in it. Would it be possible to install a temporary piece of flexible tubing at 2 points in the loop, effectively cutting a large chunk of it out of the "circuit"? You could detach the hard tube and attach the temporary flex tube to the pump output. Then break the loop half way through and attach the other end of the flex tube there. Cap off the chunk that you cut out. Now your loop is half as long, with half of the devices and fittings bypassed. If leak detection is still indicating a problem, cut the loop in half again. If leak detection is not reporting a problem, check the other half of the loop. Eventually you will have a loop that is pump - problem device - pump.

Leak detection not reporting a problem in whatever section of loop you have active will also confirm that leak detection is actually working properly. You could also validate that leak detection is working properly by making a super short loop, like pump - rad - pump. I'm not sure if its OK to connect the pump output directly to its intake with a piece of flex tube, but this would be the shortest loop possible. Of course you should have only the active loop components powered while doing this, along with full paper towel brigade. This is also very intrusive trouble shooting so there is a risk of causing a leak that was not there before. I would do a meticulous physical inspection first before I started chopping the loop up with a test flex tube, but it sounds like you have pretty much already done that. Good luck, and please do post your findings. That is a lot of loop to troubleshoot.

I guess I could but I dont own any soft tubing fittings though, I guess I could pick a few up, but atm I don't own any. I can try that though removing a big section of the loop like the nexxos monsta being the biggest thing I cant control as it crammed into this case and barely fits, but it does. Just have to take everything off of the case to get it to it and my reservoir and fans are all attached to it also both pumps as well. So its the mainstage in my loop. Could try removing that section see what happens


Also off-topic question but shouldn't a power-adjust3 be able to power a Darkside uv led strip a 12v one? it has a 3pin plugin aquaero6 powers it no problem I figured since its a power based thing the poweradjust3 should be able to power it. I get nothing when I plug it in to the pa3, I plug it back into the aquaero6 it works just fine again.